Cacao, Mourning and TV

Raw blocks of  processed cacao (chocolate)

Here is the Real Deal. Pure cacao chocolate. 100% pure and uncut. The taste is amazing - a short burst of heavy chocolate, with a tinge of bitter. Then the cocoa butter (oil) melts and smooths everything out into a heavenly swirl. Shortly thereafter the caffeine (8 x more than coffee) kicks in.

Flag of the Ngobe people

These blocks were gifts from the aptly named Quebrada Cacao community for my assistance to them.

At the same meeting, I was given an honorary Ngobe name: UnchikraKwaribo

I think it means something like "large friend with no fur". The Ngobe call 'em like they see 'em.

The Ngobe Comarca flag of my adopted nation is proudly shown here.

Every morning over breakfast, I watch the local Panama news channel. Some observations after 3 months:
There are no partisan commentators giving opinion instead of fact. This is “straight” news, with interviews of the parties involved – like US news used to be. 
Ample time is given to “Denuncios” (denouncements), where average citizens sound off about local problems they’d like to see fixed.
There is ALWAYS a corruption trial or scandal going on. To a lesser extent, I’m guessing that the corruption in US is just better hidden.
There are frequent “PSAs”, reminding folks of all the things the government is doing for them : new roads, bridges, subsidized propane and rice, free Christmas hams, cheaper bus fares, etc. There are even teasers for planned projects (which may or may not actually materialize). Of course, these always end with the incumbent President’s smiling face – a form of free political ad. 
Commercial advertisements seem mostly for food and cleaning products and remind me of US ads in the 50’s and 60’s – they are longer and feature a housewife extolling the product virtues. Oddly, the women in these ads all live in large, modern, well decorated homes and the women are all white or light skinned with blonde hair – representing about 9% of the population.
News anchors tend to be white women with blonde hair and Hispanic men.

I saw some slick new construction tech in Valle Risco yesterday. Walls are built with these interlocking panels which are filled with concrete. Electric and plumbing slide through lateral holes in the panels.
Some of you may remember the Techos de Esperanza project from last year. The Panamanian government is building thousands of these small homes around the country in rural areas. They are well built with indoor plumbing and excellent electric service. But they have some problems : Soil here is mostly clay and does not percolate, so septic tanks back up. Also, lack of windows means all internal and external doors must be open to catch a breeze. In addition, some are built in villages without good water or electric service.

Panamanians had a day of mourning Dec 20th - remembering the US Invasion (aka Operation Just Cause) 28 years ago. The US military attacked with 23,000 ground troops, artillery, tanks and helicopter gun ships to oust President Noriega, a rogue CIA operative. 
About 1,000 Panamanian civilians were killed in the crossfire, with 2500 injured and 1900 captured. The US occupied in force for 30 days while searching for the elusive Noriega.
Not exactly our finest hour.

Due to the relatively low water pressure of gravity fed water systems and the greatly differing elevations of houses within a community prevalent here in the mountainous jungle area of Bocas del Toro, Panama, houses at lower elevations get tons of water and those above often get little or none. 
The solution is to restrict flow to the lower houses, either with proper reduced pipe size or with these home-made flow restrictors. It's just an ordinary faucet washer inserted into the line, but it does the trick. 
The only problem I had when I used them in Torti was that folks at lower elevation would get greedy and remove them. This time I'm hoping that epoxy glue will prevent removal - only time will tell.

A Plan to Help 1100 People

Community meeting in Barriada Santos

Far too long since my last blog. Panama has suffered a rain event of near Bibilical proportions – over 80 hours of non-stop rain. The timing was fortuitous, as it gave me time to complete my grant application. After planning with five local communities, crunching materials estimates, filling multiple spreadsheets, figuring delivery, transport and construction schedules, completing a 14 page application and then re-entering ALL the information into the PC online grants portal, my PCPP grant application is at last submitted for approval.

If approved, we will provide new water service to about 500 people who have never had water at their homes and upgrade water service to another 600 folks, as well as providing training to the water committees and communities.
We’ll be building 5 new spring boxes, 2 water storage tanks, laying a total of about 9 KM of PVC pipe, making a river crossing bridge and running household lines directly to the homes.

One of many mudslides from the recent rains

I’ve now visited 11 of the 16 water systems on my list. I’ll still visit the sites, but won’t be able to help them directly. Sadly, I have reached the maximum grant amount, so the remaining villages will have to wait for the next volunteer.

After 4 days of solid rain, I was finally able to get back out to the campo. Rivers way over their banks, huge fallen trees and mud slides all over. Not to mention a foot of mud in all the footpaths.
The upside was a monster rainbow.

Remember the "Black Lagoon" and its festering septic waters? Well, the recent hard rains have flushed it out into the Bocas Bay. Now, it's the Chocolate Lagoon.

Long lines to get the free Christmas hams

Panama subsidizes a lot of things for "the people", like propane and rice. They also do lots of giveaways - school backpacks for kids and sporting goods. One of the most unique is a Christmas Ham. They range from 6 to 8 lbs. They are free to "jubilados" (men over 60 and women over 55). $4 for the less elderly. One per family. No idea how that is enforced. 

Folks were lined up around the block today to get one.
From what I was told, Christmas Ham (MUST be topped with pineapple) is as deeply traditional as our Thanksgiving Turkey.
It also seems that many of these hams will be consumed on Mothers' Day, which was Friday (Dec 8) here in Panama.

From the 1890's to 1979, United Fruit (now Chiquita) shipped all their bananas from the plantations in Changuinola to the port in Almirante via railway. For some reason(s), they decided that shipping via containers on trucks was a better route and the old tracks were abandoned. I'm guessing this involved less handling of the fruit and avoiding the horrendous maintenance of the RR. Now, all that remains of the tracks are the bridge over the river and various other re-purposed uses. One of which is a small road bridge on the road to Valle Risco.

Extra large diagram of the project 

It was a long meeting with the Barriada Santos community this morning to present the tentative plan for the renovation and upgrade of their water system. While most everyone in the community speaks Spanish, many prefer to use "their own language" of Ngäbere. Since I only know "good morning" (Ñan törö deka) and "see you later" (Jatwaita mare) - there is no Hello or Good-Bye – so, everything had to be translated back and forth. 
But, big smiles prevailed and the project is a GO from the community. Fortunately, all the folks I work with directly on the project are fine with Spanish.

Water waste is a HUGE problem in this area

Another village water system visit. Palo Seco suffers from a chronic lack of maintenance and water waste. Time to wake the folks up - clean water doesn't happen by itself !!

Cacao and Holidays

Waiting to sell cacao beans

These folks are waiting in line (or on line) to sell their cacao beans to the Coop. Waiting in line is something folks around here do quite well.
These farmers have gone into the jungle and cleared some land (and possibly filed a land claim). Then they planted the cacao seeds of choice and waited 5 years. After that, they will get two harvests per year, where they pick the fruit, cut it open, clean the seeds (beans) and set them out to dry. Then they will shell the outer husk, bag them and haul them out of the jungle.

Drying cacao beans

When it's time to sell, they have two options : Sell to the local "agent" for about $0.90/lb cash. These agents are in most of the smaller villages that have road access - relatively convenient. Or they can wait until one of the Coop depots are open - one day a week. These are only in Almirante and Changuinola. But the price is about $1.30/lb - almost 50% MORE !! Then again, the Coop only pays by check so the sellers must go to the bank and wait again.

Either way, the cacao that is the basis for all your chocolate delights has a well-earned beginning.

Selling Christmas trees in the tropics

Christmas always feels a little odd in the tropics. Yet even here in Changuinola, Panama, cut trees are available - shipped in from Canada. Price tags were from $45 to $85, but include the stand.

No official Thanksgiving here in Panama. Only a token Día de Acción de Gracias. But, that doesn't stop me from being thankful for the rich, diverse and unique life I've lived (and continue to live).
The promised turkey at my favorite restaurant turned out to be sliced turkey loaf, so I opted for ham and lobster instead. No pumpkin pie, but the banana bread was pretty good.

Goyo's Better Homes & Gardens Tour of Barriada Guerra.

I visited to check on a PCVs water project completed last year. Everything is running (near) perfectly, so I toured the 'hood and chatted with folks. They were pretty excited that they got electricity two months ago.

11 Site visits down and 5 to go

 !!

Particularly fond of the little pig house !!

Today begins the week-long binge of dances, parades and boozing that is Fiestas Patrias, a celebration of the Declaration of Independence from Spain. Imagine Thanksgiving that lasts 10 days.
Fortunately for me, the party is mostly in the cities, so I'll still be able to get some work done out in the campo. 
I tried doing the big party thing once (Mardi Gras in Panama City ) which made me highly irregular and I swore I'd never do it again.

A Dam Good Deal

The Changuinola Dan under construction in 2009 - It is the largest Rolled Concrete Gravity-Arch
dam in the world, producing 223 million watts of power per day. The backed up reservoir is 160M above the old level of the Changuinola River

A stock photo of the old village of Charco
now under about 250 feet of water

Like many indigenous people, the Ngobe villages of Valle Rey and Charco de Pava were located on the banks of the Changuinola river. When energy giant AES Panama wanted to build a hydroelectric dam on the river, the government negotiated some really good terms for the two villages and several other folks who were to be displaced by the project. AES initially offered work on the project to the villagers and anyone else in the Nance Valley who wanted it. Secondly, AES agreed to replace the villages and others who would be flooded by the new reservoir lake. This included a new 5 bedroom, 1

One of the 30 huge new homes in Charco - with all the trimmings

bath house for every house in the old village – no matter how small. The new houses are gorgeous two story structures, with complete indoor plumbing a semi-detached kitchen and laundry area and big open porches on both floors. AES also built good paved roads throughout the valley – as well as schools and clinics. All residents also got free electric power.

Charco water tank, with filter and chlorinating hut at rear

My main interest, of course, were the water systems. AES had that covered, as well. They built high quality systems for both villages, tapping big canyon water flows with oversized pipes and tanks. Cartridge water filters and chlorinators were installed, providing excellent drinking water to all homes affected. Sadly, there were 7 homes above the water line who got nada. Even better, AES agreed to maintain the systems, though no one seems sure how long that will last. Bottom line for me is that I can cross these folks off the list of communities that need my assistance.

3 spacious upstairs bedrooms with big open porch

So, huge new home with indoor plumbing, free water and electric and bus access to Almirante via great roads. Gotta be a once in a lifetime deal for these folks. The only hitch has been that AES has been slow to provide all this. The dam was completed in 2011 and electricity flowed in 2012. But, in 2017, only about 20 homes were completed. The other 10 are in various stages of construction, including the final two which are only foundations. Most families have been “doubling up” with other family members and seem disappointed (but not outraged) at the slow progress.

Some folks have added their own "upgrades"

I figured there would be some culture shock in going from thatched huts, no power and fetching water from the river to full-on modern housing. But, the two families I visited seem to have adapted just fine. One home had 20 or so people living in it, with the entire lower porch consumed with laundry hanging on multiple lines. Many have made their own upgrades, including one family that completely enclosed their porches and installed air conditioning.

The village also sports a "port" where small wooden boat - hand carved from giant logs - go up river to 3 small villages

Protests, Sewers, Uprisings and More

Legendary Rufina in the Los Santos Uprising

Yet another holiday here in Panama today - Los Santos Uprising Day 
While revolutionary leaders in Panama City were discussing plans to declare independence from Spanish rule, the little village of Los Santos in Verugas province decided to act on their own. They captured the local Spanish garrison armed only with rocks, clubs and machetes. When word of this reached Panama City two weeks later, there was an official proclamation of Independence from Spain.
A curious note is the the legend of Rufina Alfaro, a Los Santos teenage girl who is said to have cried “Long Live Liberty!” while attacking the garrison. Historians can't confirm her existence, but it's a good legend anyway.

Ex-President Martinelli and sons - Look familiar ?

There have been a rash of protests and demonstrations here in Panama over what many see as leniency for all the fraud and corruption convictions over the last few years - mostly arising from the Martinelli presidency. 
Case in point is one of Martinelli's cronies who got a $143 Million contract to build roads in Cocle province, paid himself and friends over $1M in "consulting fees" and then bankrupted the company before any construction was done. He was convicted and sentenced to 18 months in low security "country club" prison. No fines or repatriation.
I can appreciated how folks might feel ripped off.
One recent conviction involves Martinelli's sons. Folks are demanding some real punishment. Looks a bit like Trump & Sons, yes? I can only hope that Trump and sons will get some punishment for their transgressions.

PCV Paige Tweedy at the temporary spring catchment

Another small village water system evaluated. This time with help from 2 local Peace Corps Volunteers. Quebrada Cacao is small but feisty. Their old water source dried up so they found a new one and built a collection box, which was promptly destroyed by a 4 foot diameter tree. They removed said tree (a Herculean task by hand and chainsaw) and are rebuilding with the Volunteer's help.

A sadly typical sewage canal in Changuinola

The city of Changuinola, Panama is in the process of building a sewage treatment plant and running sewer lines. None to soon - the current system of open sewers that empty to rivers and sea are a health disaster waiting to happen. 
Folks around here don't seem to mind, so long as the heavy rains continue to flush out the sewage                                                                                                  canals.

Some areas have taken to covering the sewage canals
with a sidewalk, two birds with one stone

The US went through the same septic evolution not so many years ago. The first sewage systems in the US were built in the 1870's - only in a few big cities (Chicago was the first). But all those sewer systems flowed to rivers, lakes and oceans. First treatment plants were not built until the 1950's . As late as the 70's the majority of sewage went relatively untreated.

I saw another lady carrying a heavy load from her forehead today, just like the coffee bean carrier the other day. It seems it is standard procedure around here. It looks more stressful than carrying the weight from the shoulders.
But what does a gringo know ??

Barrio Lindo and Cobradores

Cute Village is an apt description

My latest water system evaluation took me to Barrio Lindo (pop. 65), which translates as “Cute or Pretty Neighborhood”, which is exactly what it is. The small village is 3 km from Risco, down a muddy road and across the Risco River, with no bridge and then a hike on a path through a cacao plantation. The river is about 100 ft wide and 2 feet deep right now, but that changes in the rainy season, when it can get chest high. With no transportation or electricity, the village is still a scenic and pleasant place, save for the drainage ditches into which flow waste water from the houses.

We may need to build another tank

Their water comes from a beautiful spring and storage tank, which yield a minimum of 14,000 gallons per day. Since 215 gallons is way more water than is needed here ( average daily use is between 30 and 50 gallons per person per day), the village is exploring the possibility of sharing their water with  the nearby village of Barriada Terra on the other side of the river, which has no water system at the moment.

My frequent stops to take photos gave the troops many rest stops

I hope to facilitate the agreement document, construction of the waterline extension and repair of the spring box, which is leaking about 3000 gallons a day. We might also build a second storage tank. In any case I’m delighted that Barriada Terra will soon have a safe, convenient water supply and stop hauling water from the river.

We passed this guy from Lindo carrying 100 lb of
cacao (chocolate) beans. He had to hike the trail,
wade the river and go uphill to get to Risco, where
he''ll sell the bag for about $110

Some Panamanian Holiday History

Like most Latin countries, Panama enjoys a plethora of holidays. I got blindsided by a local holiday today - Founding Day in Almirante (the day the city was incorporated). No small bus service, so had to turn tail and come home.
The rest of the week does not bode well for getting anything done either:
Nov 2-Day of the Dead,
Nov 3-Independence Day from Colombia (aka Separation Day)
Nov 4- Flag Day 
Nov 5 - Colon Day (celebrated on Monday the 6th)
Also coming up :
Nov 10 - Los Santos Day (political, not religious)
Nov 28 - Independence Day from Spain (Fiestas Patrias)

The last two are curious. Los Santos was the uprising that started the War of Independence from Spain. Legend has it that it was started by Rufina Alfaro who was a young woman who lived in a small village near Los Santos. On November 10, 1821 she led a group of Panamanians, shouting “Viva la Libertad” (Long live liberty). People armed with sticks and stones seized Spanish barracks without spilling a single drop of blood. Historians agree that the uprising did occur, but Rufina and her words are not confirmed.
It was a VERY short war, since Spain ceded the area just 18 days later.
What is more confusing is that Panama was not Panama at the time - it was part of Gran Colombia.
Still, THIS is the BIG holiday. Go figure. My theory is that since Panama's independence from Colombia was mostly the doing of the US Army and Navy, it gets swept under the rug.

Since I am currently living in Panama ( a country sensible enough not to engage in the silly charade of Daylight Savings), I have no clocks to change. 
I will now be on the same time as the US Right Coast. At least for a while.

 In all fairness, DST would be truly ridiculous so close to the equator, where the length of day is near constant (11.5 min, 12.5 max).
Here is a very cool interactive site that demonstrates daylight length at various latitudes over the year.
http://astro.unl.edu/.../coord.../daylighthoursexplorer.html

I pass the construction site of the new MONSTER baseball stadium in Changuinola, Panama most every day. With baseball on the decline since the Americans left the Canal Zone, it seems an odd and very expensive project. $6.5 million could build some badly needed sewer or water infrastructure.
But, who am I to question local priorities.

A Tribute to the Cobradores

Most folks think a bus is all about the driver. But, I’m making the case that the lowly “cobradore” (never seen a cobradora) is the heart of the bus operation here. They are the “collectors”, the guys who collect fares. This in itself is a bit of an art form. The lads must remember where each passenger embarked and calculate the appropriate fare. Just before arriving at the ultimate destination, they push their way through a crowded bus, collecting and making change as they go. When presented with a large bill, they must wait until sufficient change is collected.

In addition, they help older or pregnant passengers on and off the bus and stow packages that are too large for a passenger’s lap. They call out the upcoming stops and tell the driver when to stop. At intersections the cobradore fills in the driver’s blind spots and tells him when to accelerate after new passengers are seated.

One the most fascinating of their functions is to signal seat availability when approaching passengers at a stop. They will stick their hand out a window or door and signal a “come hither” motion to indicate empty seats. If all seats are full, they will point two fingers down to indicate standing room only. If full, they just make the “wagging finger” motion.

Many times, these lads are called upon to perform multi-tasking. And they generally to do with aplomb. Rarely do they get a chance to sit - balance is a requisite. So, CHEERS to the Cobradores – the true heroes of the bus system !!

Playa Drago - A Day at the Beach

My hammock at Playa Drago

It’s not all work here in Panama. Sunday, I took my first beach day on Isla Colon (aka Bocas). It’s a 30 minutes bus ride from Changuinola to Almirante, when I catch the high speed boat (launcha) to the island. I get the “senior” discount, so it’s $3.50 instead of the normal $5. The boat service is really

Bocas Town waterfront - lots of boat traffic

well run and punctual. The sad part of the trip is the awful pollution and poverty of the harbor basin, before passing the huge Chiquita shipping dock and heading out into the clear waters of the bay.

Along the route, we pass Isla Cristobal – Christopher Columbus (aka Cristobal Colon) left his name all 

A local wooden boat

over this area. Lots of local wooden boats, carved from a single tree are out fishing, enduring the wakes of all the passing speed boats. Arriving in Bocas town is a treat – I feel like I’m back in the Bahamas or Virgin Islands. The harbor is full of derelict boats and some mega-yachts. Buildings on the waterfront are colorful, with Colonial architecture. The downtown area is very touristy, with craft shops, restaurants and hotels jam backed together. TONS of European back-packers wander the streets.

Touristy downtown - crafts and hostels

At the park, I caught the bus that runs up the center of the island to Playa Drago. The ride is stark contrast to the tourism of town. We passed small outlying houses and villages and vast bamboo forests. I couldn’t help but notice many well structures (occupational hazard) and learned that the government built the wells and distribution system just 5 years ago, in response to a water crisis on the island. The current tourism boom is taxing even this large system. The rich folks, hotels and businesses are getting priority as they can pay the skyrocketing fees, while the poor folks still struggle. Sewage is an even bigger problem. All new construction and older hotels with 15 or more rooms are required to operate their own private sewage treatment plants.

Shuttle boats to Playa Estrella

Arriving at Playa Drago all that vanished from mind. The gorgeous turquoise water and waves took my mind well out of gear. I chatted with the boat drivers who take tourists to the famous Playa Estrella and got my body immersed in sea water ASAP. I snorkeled out to the reef which was loaded with tropical fish. 

The point break in distance is on the Changuinola peninsula
about 5 miles from my apartment

Unfortunately, the hurricane that came through this part of the Caribbean stirred up the bottom sand, which has yet to settle out. So no decent photos.

Lucky for me.... it was SUNDAY !!

The only restaurant was serving Rondon – a fish chowder with coconut milk base. Absolutely delicious, washed down with a Miller beer. Then headed for a hammock slung under a palm tree for a short nap.

Refreshed and relaxed, I boarded the return bus, speed boat and bus back to Changuinola. I think I’m going to like exploring ALL the beaches of the Bocas archipelago.

Another tranquil beach on the leeward side of Drago Point