A Dam Good Deal

The Changuinola Dan under construction in 2009 - It is the largest Rolled Concrete Gravity-Arch
dam in the world, producing 223 million watts of power per day. The backed up reservoir is 160M above the old level of the Changuinola River

A stock photo of the old village of Charco
now under about 250 feet of water

Like many indigenous people, the Ngobe villages of Valle Rey and Charco de Pava were located on the banks of the Changuinola river. When energy giant AES Panama wanted to build a hydroelectric dam on the river, the government negotiated some really good terms for the two villages and several other folks who were to be displaced by the project. AES initially offered work on the project to the villagers and anyone else in the Nance Valley who wanted it. Secondly, AES agreed to replace the villages and others who would be flooded by the new reservoir lake. This included a new 5 bedroom, 1

One of the 30 huge new homes in Charco - with all the trimmings

bath house for every house in the old village – no matter how small. The new houses are gorgeous two story structures, with complete indoor plumbing a semi-detached kitchen and laundry area and big open porches on both floors. AES also built good paved roads throughout the valley – as well as schools and clinics. All residents also got free electric power.

Charco water tank, with filter and chlorinating hut at rear

My main interest, of course, were the water systems. AES had that covered, as well. They built high quality systems for both villages, tapping big canyon water flows with oversized pipes and tanks. Cartridge water filters and chlorinators were installed, providing excellent drinking water to all homes affected. Sadly, there were 7 homes above the water line who got nada. Even better, AES agreed to maintain the systems, though no one seems sure how long that will last. Bottom line for me is that I can cross these folks off the list of communities that need my assistance.

3 spacious upstairs bedrooms with big open porch

So, huge new home with indoor plumbing, free water and electric and bus access to Almirante via great roads. Gotta be a once in a lifetime deal for these folks. The only hitch has been that AES has been slow to provide all this. The dam was completed in 2011 and electricity flowed in 2012. But, in 2017, only about 20 homes were completed. The other 10 are in various stages of construction, including the final two which are only foundations. Most families have been “doubling up” with other family members and seem disappointed (but not outraged) at the slow progress.

Some folks have added their own "upgrades"

I figured there would be some culture shock in going from thatched huts, no power and fetching water from the river to full-on modern housing. But, the two families I visited seem to have adapted just fine. One home had 20 or so people living in it, with the entire lower porch consumed with laundry hanging on multiple lines. Many have made their own upgrades, including one family that completely enclosed their porches and installed air conditioning.

The village also sports a "port" where small wooden boat - hand carved from giant logs - go up river to 3 small villages