Half way Done

It’s hard to believe, but today marks the mid-point of my Peace Corps Response service here in Panama. My work with the water systems is about 80% done and we have only 6 more Bano units of the 42 planned to left to build. 60 more Global Brigades volunteers will be coming in 3 weeks to help with that.
Time does indeed fly when I’m having a good time. My work has been rewarding, I’ve had a wonderful place to call home, great people to work with and an interesting country to learn about and explore.
Color me a very happy camper.

Looking forward, I may return here in January to continue my water systems work in 5 more villages. Or I may accept an offer from Peace Corps to work in the Bocas de Toro area, with the indigenous tribes on similar projects. Or I may still get to help recruit older Volunteers. I still don’t feel ready to “retire”.

Always carry a machete in the jungle

More fun with Ligorio and Benino and Palo

Continuing progress on rehabilitating and upgrading the Pueblo Nuevo water system with my pals. Today, we cleaned out the “toma” water intake at the spring. It was loaded with leaves, dirt and rocks – some pretty big. Then we installed the home-made air release valves along the water line at the high points. I took GPS readings and produced an altitude profile chart as well as a detailed map of the system. And we enjoyed a jungle lunch of Benino’s fried chicken. Ligorio says it is not as good as KFC, which we sampled a few weeks back. I think he’s just being polite.

As you can see from the map, we can taxi out a dirt road to very near the source and so only have to walk the 5 km line in one direction. Not looking forward to marching 9 km out and another 9 back on the Ipeti line. Again, NO mosquitoes for most of the trip. UNTIL we came to the river. Then they attacked. I had warning from the troops and got my DEET on. Just a few bites, but the buzzing noise really “bugs” me.

Lamentation for Diablos Rojos (Red Devil buses)

You were once Kings of the Panamanian streets and highways. Your overly ornate, sexually suggestive air brush exteriors exuded the machismo that your drivers held so dear. Your New Orleans whore-house interiors belied the “Jesus is my Guide” and religious paraphernalia on your dash. The thunder of your straight, unmuffled tailpipes shook the earth and unmistakably announced your arrival, even before you sounded your air-horns. Your drivers swaggered with the confidence that they were the best and most daring drivers on the road. You were the flagships of Panamanian transportation and without equal.

Toyota Coaster bus

But, deep in your school bus chassis and 50’s engine design and rough suspension, you held the knowledge of your eventual demise. It started with the upstart Toaster buses with their efficiency and air-conditioning. Those pesky little Japanese cousins drove a wedge of comfort, convenience and safety between you and the riders of the long-haul routes. So, you retreated to The City to lick your wounds.

But then very suddenly and with little warning, your death blow was dealt by the government and delivered by sleek, modern, air conditioned Metrobuses, and their less complicated single fare and debit card systems.

Oh, yes, a few of you still skulk around the streets and alleys of the City and some have fled in exile to the rural areas to end their days in relative peace. You are old and no longer relevant. You are slow and dirty and noisy and still offer only a hot interior. Your engines are tired and worn. Your suspensions have no spring.

Soon, you will all but disappear. Perhaps your legend will live on in the hearts of older Panamanians. Perhaps one day they will smile while rocking in their hammocks, recalling their first date while riding your provocative interior. Maybe they will try and describe your paint jobs to an unbelieving younger generation. Maybe a museum will put you on display.

But, unless you had a chance to ride on one, descriptions and displays with all fall short. I’m glad I got to ride you at least twice. I can’t honestly say I’m sad to see you go. But, I’m glad I met you and had at least an imaginative glimpse into your history and legend.