Vacation in the Panamanian "Alps" + Banana Rant

The new Panama City suburbs

Wild West

My first trip to the “other side “ of Panama, west of the Canal, was quite an eye-opener. I now understand why folks speak with condescension about Panama Este and the Darien. While the East Side is the leader in rainforest destruction for cattle and teak, the West Side is busting out in “modern” development. Following the dubious lead of the US, bedroom communities, ala the Levitt Towns of the 50’s are soling the countryside in the west. These cookie-cutter homes are cheap, starting around $40K for a one bedroom. The developments are devoid of trees and shops, requiring all who live there to either walk huge distances or GET A CAR to drive to the nearest shopping center or mall. Billboards pollute the roadsides – which may actually be preferable to plastic bags and trash.

The stunning beach at Coronado

Further west, the billboards tout expensive watches cars and ( most interestingly) legal services for “off-shore” investors. The mega beachfront developments, rivalling the Florida condo boom of the 80’s, rise out of the once pristine white jungle beaches. The ride up to Valle de Anton revealed huge weekend/summer estates for wealthy Panamanians, Americans and Canadians. Real estate prices have gone ballistic.

I understand the attraction though. While most of the lowlands near the coast have the same heat and humidity as the Torti area, the beaches are absolutely gorgeous and the mountains, just 20 minutes away enjoy eternal spring time, with high’s in the 80’s and lows in the 60s. In the dry season, this would be absolute Paradise.

The open air Lodge at Mamallena

Even the little mountain pueblo of El Valle has been overrun with Americans, all putting around in their camouflage 4WD cruisers. America has always influenced, if not controlled Panamanian culture. For better. Or worse.

My reason for going West was my next Peace Corps vacation. I have chosen to go west of the Canal into Colce province and above

My room at Mamallena was right on the river

my normal Panamanian cruising altitude of -5M to 80M. I stayed at Mamallena Eco Lodge in the Valle de Anton. This whole area is the remains of an ancient volcano. The floor is about 2500 ft and the rim tops out at 3500. Not high by American or Peruvian standards, but the changes in altitude are large and remarkable. First is the temperature – no more hot and humid, but

A walk along the river was beautiful - so was the swimming

cool and breezy. The tropical forest now shares space with pine trees. Rivers and waterfalls and alpine lakes are everywhere.
I stayed in a special room right on the river. The sound of the river, combined with birds and insects was astonishing and soothing. Falling asleep was easy and instant. I did it a LOT.

Crossing one of many suspension bridges at El Chorro Macho

In El Valle, the main town, I hiked to El Chorro Macho, the biggest waterfall of MANY in the area, visited the market with my German friends, and saw the butterfly and orchid conservatories.

The falls at El Chorro Macho

I finally got a photo of the elusive Blue

Yesterday’s harvest of my own little bananas brought to mind the precarious position of bananas, as we know them in the US. Indeed, the most popular fruit in the land for many decades may yield its title to the All-American apple. For most Americans, the only banana they have ever known is a variety called Cavendish. As “Chiquita Banana” once famously sang to us “I am the top banana in the world today”.

But, before her colorful arrival, the banana world bowed to the Gran Michel or Big Mike. It was slightly shorter and plumper, with a meat that was darker yellow and most say more flavorful. Big Mike was planted by the United Fruit Company throughout Central and South America and was the impetus for the phrase “Banana Republic”. Wherever United Fruit invested in massive banana plantations, the US government and by extension the Marines, Army and CIA made sure that the leaders of those countries would not interfere with the operations and profits of Big Mike.

Then, the unthinkable happened. Big Mike was brought down, not by a government, but by a disease. To appreciate why this legendary variety fell so quickly, you need only know that bananas do not reproduce by seed. They can only be grown from cuttings of another banana plant, so every plant is genetically identical to every other of that variety. And a  genetic monoculture is Nature’s bitch. A virus that affects one plant will spread rapidly spread to them all.

Fortunately, the decline took a few years to spread through all the countries. United Fruit was able to find another variety that had many of the same characteristics, but which was not susceptible to the blight. Those features are : 1) a tough skin that does not bruise easily 2) all “hands” on the shoot mature at the same time, allowing wholesale harvest, rather than an expensive hand-by-hand harvest 3) a ripening schedule that matched shipping times to the US and Europe 4) familiar color, shape and taste.

And thus began the rule of Lord Cavendish, occasionally cross dressing as Carmen Miranda (aka Chiquita Banana). Since the 50’s, his/her rule has been absolute. Any other entries into the market (Dole), had to adapt the Cavendish to be accepted by the public. Plantations were expanded to Africa and Asia, hoping  to avoid the spread of any future blight problem.

But, a new blight did come, starting in Asia and moving quickly to Africa and then to the banana heartland of Central/South America. Harvests of the Cavendish are already down by about 35% and steadily declining. Eventually, every plant that was cloned from that one Mother plant will die. And with them our banana consumption.

Unlike in the 50’s, there is no heir apparent to the banana throne. Other varieties all suffer from a lack of one of the features listed above. Some are really tasty, but just don’t ship well. Others split open as they ripen. Or ripen too quickly to get them to market. Or have to be picked hand-by –hand. Or, like my little guys, suffer from “banana rust” which doesn’t affect the fruit, but makes the skin look “yucky” and unacceptable to the consumers’ ideal of perfect looking produce.

I have no doubt that the genetic engineers at Dole and UF are working overtime to develop some super new banana for us. But, that will likely involve some “genetic engineering” so unpopular in certain circles these days. (Even though virtually ALL our food is “genetically engineered” – But, that is a rant for another day.)

So, here’s the bottom line : Gather and savor those luscious yellow fruits while ye may, for tomorrow (actually in about 10 years) there may be none. We’ve already seen  Dole and UF introduce “finger bananas” and there will likely be more. But, unless the GM folks have their way, the world will never know the likes of Big Mike or Lord Cavendish again. They will be legends told to unbelieving grandchildren, sucking on banana flavored, artificially sweetened and colored, gluten-free treats.  

Yala Kuna Celebration - Dancing, Drumming and Chlorine

The young dancers - all in flowers, body paint and those bright skirts

The drumming corps was small but loud

A very special day in Ipeti - celebration of Yala, the Goddess of Water. Oddly  (or maybe not), it was a totally sunny day. Most of the village women turned out in their bright skirts and all had body markings of the temporary marking dye. (which I will try one day). There was drumming and dancing (videos later today) and traditional fish and plantain lunch, with a corn drink.
It was a work day for me, but I couldn't resist the drums. 

The Water Goddess - Yala Kuna in her garden

Dancers Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXE8QUWzpGk

Drummers Video :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jaac29ygMzs

Despite the distraction of a drumming and dancing celebration, we managed to get the new chlorine drip system up and running. This will disinfect ALL of the village's water. Combined with the improved sanitation of the Bano units, diarrhea, parasites and other intestinal maladies should be greatly reduced.
I wonder what water goddess Yala Kuna thought of this ??

New shut off valve, filter and converted hospital IV drip system delivers just the right amount of drops per minute (12) to keep the water safe.

The ladies served a very tasty lunch of garlic roasted tilapia from the Lake Bayano, with fried plantains, in a handy palm leaf "cup" that also held a delicious corn drink, when the meal was finished. No silverware or plates needed. Nothing to clean up - the "cup" goes back to nature.

The "tailless whip scorpion"

I’ve never seen a spider like this. About 1 ½ “ across and very flat. I figure it is doing its part to keep my insect population down. Turns out, it's not a spider at all. The "tailless whip scorpion" lives quite harmlessly in my bathroom. (harmless unless you are an insect, that is)

This and That

I was feeling kinda down this morning when the morning rains cancelled a third work day in a row. But then a song that I wrote for my sons Alden and Dawson popped into my head. A few minutes later, I was gifted some delicious sweet corn, right from the field and felt better directly. Maybe the song will work for you, too.

The chorus needs some 'splainin. Framagrassit is my familiy's version of "thingamabob" or "whatchamacallit". Huppy Duppy is a game the boys and I played when they were little. It involved jumping on the bed and catching a ball in mid-air, while shouting "Huppy-Duppy" before a tummy landing.

Here is the YouTube link :                         Huppy Duppy Song


An excellent Water Committee meeting in Pueblo Nuevo. We reviewed all the functions and duties and rules. Then I trained them in basic accounting and exactly how to use the excellent new ledgers that Global Brigades provided.

I’ve never seen a spider like this. About 1 ½ “ across and very flat. I figure it is doing its part to keep my insect population down. Turns out, it's not a spider, but a "tailless whip scorpion" - completely harmless. And yes, they do eat bugs and such.

Continuing progress on rehabilitating and upgrading the Pueblo Nuevo water system with my pals. Today, we cleaned out the “toma” water intake at the spring. It was loaded with leaves, dirt and rocks – some pretty big. Then we installed the home-made air release valves along the water line at the high points. I took GPS readings and produced an altitude profile chart as well as a detailed map of the system. And we enjoyed a jungle lunch of Benino’s fried chicken. Ligorio says it is not as good as KFC, which we sampled a few weeks back. I think he’s just being polite.

As you can see from the map, we can taxi out a dirt road to very near the source and so only have to walk the 5 km line in one direction. Not looking forward to marching 9 km out and another 9 back on the Ipeti line. Again, NO mosquitoes for most of the trip. UNTIL we came to the river. Then they attacked. I had warning from the troops and got my DEET on. Just a few bites, but the buzzing noise really “bugs” me.

Survey of all the new bathroom units (composting toilet, shower and sink) in Ipeti completed. Lots of details left to finish and many up and running. Fortunately, 60 Global Brigades volunteers will be here to help in 2 weeks.

More color and crafts from the lady artists in Ipeti. Even the clotheslines are gorgeous. I will be consolidating all these crafts and skirts and molas and taking orders in September. Promise.

Why do all the hills here in Panama look like they have Mohawks ?? Because land parcels are not surveyed in straight lines, but described by the ridges and valleys. Then, folks put up fences along the property lines and the posts sprouted and became “living fences”. The result – Mohawk hills.

The Spiral Ginger, the kind that grows in my yard and has those gorgeous blooms, is well named. The leaves really do grow in spirals.

Facts of the teak flowers. They produce thousands of tiny seeds, with rain down on the ground. I learned that most all wild teak trees bloom. But, in the teak plantations, they only bloom around the edges. Even if interior trees bloom, the seeds have no chance of sprouting due to the density of the trees and the canopy.

Half way Done

It’s hard to believe, but today marks the mid-point of my Peace Corps Response service here in Panama. My work with the water systems is about 80% done and we have only 6 more Bano units of the 42 planned to left to build. 60 more Global Brigades volunteers will be coming in 3 weeks to help with that.
Time does indeed fly when I’m having a good time. My work has been rewarding, I’ve had a wonderful place to call home, great people to work with and an interesting country to learn about and explore.
Color me a very happy camper.

Looking forward, I may return here in January to continue my water systems work in 5 more villages. Or I may accept an offer from Peace Corps to work in the Bocas de Toro area, with the indigenous tribes on similar projects. Or I may still get to help recruit older Volunteers. I still don’t feel ready to “retire”.

Always carry a machete in the jungle

More fun with Ligorio and Benino and Palo

Continuing progress on rehabilitating and upgrading the Pueblo Nuevo water system with my pals. Today, we cleaned out the “toma” water intake at the spring. It was loaded with leaves, dirt and rocks – some pretty big. Then we installed the home-made air release valves along the water line at the high points. I took GPS readings and produced an altitude profile chart as well as a detailed map of the system. And we enjoyed a jungle lunch of Benino’s fried chicken. Ligorio says it is not as good as KFC, which we sampled a few weeks back. I think he’s just being polite.

As you can see from the map, we can taxi out a dirt road to very near the source and so only have to walk the 5 km line in one direction. Not looking forward to marching 9 km out and another 9 back on the Ipeti line. Again, NO mosquitoes for most of the trip. UNTIL we came to the river. Then they attacked. I had warning from the troops and got my DEET on. Just a few bites, but the buzzing noise really “bugs” me.

Lamentation for Diablos Rojos (Red Devil buses)

You were once Kings of the Panamanian streets and highways. Your overly ornate, sexually suggestive air brush exteriors exuded the machismo that your drivers held so dear. Your New Orleans whore-house interiors belied the “Jesus is my Guide” and religious paraphernalia on your dash. The thunder of your straight, unmuffled tailpipes shook the earth and unmistakably announced your arrival, even before you sounded your air-horns. Your drivers swaggered with the confidence that they were the best and most daring drivers on the road. You were the flagships of Panamanian transportation and without equal.

Toyota Coaster bus

But, deep in your school bus chassis and 50’s engine design and rough suspension, you held the knowledge of your eventual demise. It started with the upstart Toaster buses with their efficiency and air-conditioning. Those pesky little Japanese cousins drove a wedge of comfort, convenience and safety between you and the riders of the long-haul routes. So, you retreated to The City to lick your wounds.

But then very suddenly and with little warning, your death blow was dealt by the government and delivered by sleek, modern, air conditioned Metrobuses, and their less complicated single fare and debit card systems.

Oh, yes, a few of you still skulk around the streets and alleys of the City and some have fled in exile to the rural areas to end their days in relative peace. You are old and no longer relevant. You are slow and dirty and noisy and still offer only a hot interior. Your engines are tired and worn. Your suspensions have no spring.

Soon, you will all but disappear. Perhaps your legend will live on in the hearts of older Panamanians. Perhaps one day they will smile while rocking in their hammocks, recalling their first date while riding your provocative interior. Maybe they will try and describe your paint jobs to an unbelieving younger generation. Maybe a museum will put you on display.

But, unless you had a chance to ride on one, descriptions and displays with all fall short. I’m glad I got to ride you at least twice. I can’t honestly say I’m sad to see you go. But, I’m glad I met you and had at least an imaginative glimpse into your history and legend.

Jungle River Cruise

Loading at Gamboa Docks

Jungle River Cruise

I’ve seen the Panama Canal from the road and from the train, so I figured why not see it from a boat. A tour group was available that leaves from the Gamboa docks, at the second set of locks and travels up the Canal for a bit and then up a side river through the jungle to a floating “hotel” and lodge for lunch and then goes on a kayak trip further up river to a sweet little waterfall , deep in the jungle.

Organ Grinder Monkey

A van picked me up at my hotel, after which we went across the great Bridge of the Americas to the far side Windham Eco Hotel, where Obama stayed during his visit to Panama last year. A luxury 5 star hotel that far out from town is quite a trip. We headed for the Gamboa docks, passing the prison where Gen Noriega is being held – quite comfortably, I imagine.

The boat was a small 20 passenger outboard affair, very similar to the Disney ride. Full of Americans, except for a very nice couple from Mexico. It was really interesting to see the Canal and RR from that different perspective. The Canal water is really muddy, what with all the constant dredging and big boats stirring up the bottom with their props.

Howler Monkeys napping in tree

A small tamarin monkey

As we headed up river, the water began to clear and we saw 3 kinds of monkeys, big iguanas, crocs, caimans, all sorts of birds and a small boa constrictor. The plant life is rich and amazing, really hard to show well in photos. We then took a very narrow waterway into a swampy area and finally arrived at a large floating Lodge, which is also a 4 room hotel. Outstanding meal, especially for being so far off the beaten path. They have their own power generator, conveniently placed well away from the Lodge and a water purification (reverse osmosis) plant. Bathrooms are composting toilets. They also catch rainwater for further purification. So,

The floating Jungle Lodge

I was impressed with the whole operation.

After lunch, they lead a kayak trip further up river, through a VERY narrow channel, to a waterfall and swimming basin. The cool fresh water was greatly appreciated after the kayak effort. I had a lovely young lady from Turkey, who just graduated from Berkeley as my partner and we did very well, leading the fleet the entire time. The rains

Proving that old white men can still jump

Brought back memories of my kayak days in my teens

started, right on schedule as we headed back to the Lodge and then back to the docks.

I don’t usually do group tours, but this one was very pleasant. 

Dogs

The recent , very public execution of CK, the “Chicken Killer” pup has had a rather nice fall out effect on the other puppies. The brother and sister now play together, whereas she was always excluded from play and sat with her mother before. The pups are much friendlier, coming right up to me with tail wagging, instead of CK’s snarling distance. And there has been absolutely no chicken chasing or worse. Instead, the pups have a new nemesis, in the form of a kitty from next door. The chase is perfectly harmless, since kitty has about twice their speed. And no more barking at every passing vehicle on the road, which was always led by the infamous CK. All in all, the dog situation is greatly improved. I doubt it had anything to do with disciplining CK or offing him in front of all the dogs. Rather, a “bad” dog has simply gone – wherever bad dogs go.

Skeeters

I am simply flummoxed over the mosquito situation here. I came to Panama with great warnings about the little flying beasts and was issued a full mosquito sleeping net, DEET repellent and prophylactic medication. A somber to-do was made about the dangers of even one bite, which could result in Dengue, malaria or Zika.

I arrived at the end of a very long dry season and figured I was safe until the rains came. But, the rains have come and I have yet to see, hear or feel the wrath of the terrible mosquito. Around the Cottage, this might be due to the mostly cleared land all around me. The only standing water is found in mud puddles at the side of the road, which mostly dry up between downpours. And the BATS, which zoom and dance every night by the dozens outside (and once inside) the Cottage.

Fair enough. But I also don’t get bitten when I visit my two very rural villages, one of which has a very slow moving river at its side. Or even when we venture out into deep jungle to work on water lines No Skeeters.

I did, however, get a stunning reassurance of the mosquitos’ Panamanian wrath near the New Canal in Colon. I stepped out of the taxi to get a photo of some monkeys and was instantly engulfed by a mighty horde. The likes of which I’ve only known at a really bad anchorage off Peter Island in the BVI and ashore on an unhabituated island on the Abacos, Bahamas.

Everyone around  here tells me that mosquitos are not an issue, away from the rivers. Even then, not a big deal. Only 122 cases of malaria and 34 of Zika in the whole country. Maybe Peace Corps is just doing their usual overly-cautious en loco parentis drill.

Riding the Rails Once More

The locomotive for the passenger train
This RR ferried thousands of '49ers across Panama
to get to the gold fields in CA faster

Panama Canal RR and the NEW Canal

Since the Visitors Center for the New Panama Canal is inconveniently located clear across the country (fortunately Panama is only 80 miles wide), I decided to get there via the very special Panama Canal

The Observation car - beautifully maintained

RR train. The train is mostly used to haul containers and materials. But, once a day, they add on some beautiful antique passenger cars, which have been meticulously maintained. Indeed, the faint but sweet smell of fresh varnish was in the air, along with the aroma of some freshly brewed Panamanian coffee. I was in the observation car, but made frequent trips to an open air platform, which allowed respite from the ultra-cold AC and some noisy Germans, as well as better photo and video ops.

Here's a short video clip:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8vbiKJ3xO4

The RR allowed beautiful views of Gatun Lake and Canal

The train trip is infinitely better than the bus, travelling through dense jungle as well as allowing vistas of Lake Gatun and the Changres River. It also allows close up views of the construction and maintenance parts of the Canal operation, which its gigantic lifting cranes and pile drivers that can hammer down 4 giant pilings at a time, enormous dredges and many tugs , as well.

The new locks are so big , they slide into a pocket

While the New Visitors Center is remote, it is nonetheless worth the trip. The scale of the new locks is hard to grasp without being there – kinda like the Grand Canyon or mountain vistas. But it is MASSIVE. Due to its width, the lock gates don’t open at the center like the old canal.

A monster Neo-Panamax container ship in locks

Rather they slide side-to-side, like a pocket door. A very large pocket door. And the “Neo-Panamax” vessels, as they are called are a sight to behold. It is hard to believe a ship could possibly be that big.

Now that we can make virtually unlimited quantities of chlorine in Iptei, we begin the process that will lead to daily chlorination of the water supply for the village. We’ll start by cleaning the water tanks. Like Pueblo Nuevo, this has not been done for some time, though there is only about an inch of slime in these tanks, since they capture the mountain spring right where it leaves the rocks. Then we’ll scrub the tank with chlorine and flush.

Meanwhile, we’ll be using this new measuring stick to calculate the daily water use. We measured today at 9am and then cut the water supply. Tomorrow at 9, we’ll measure again and calculate the volume of water, based on the tank dimensions and depth of water. Then we calculate the approximate number of drops of chlorine per minute needed and adjust the regulator (shown here). Next day, we’ll test the chlorine level in the village and adjust accordingly. The chlorine flow will be stopped whenever the water supply stops.

I fought hard for this IV drip kit

Tale of Two Drip Regulators
Sometimes it is just a little harder to get things done in the 3rd world. As we are setting up the water chlorination system in Ipeti, we discovered that the old drip controller (aka IV regulator) had been out in the sun too long – not unlike the way I feel sometimes – and kinda crumbled when I tried to adjust it.
In Peru, I just went down to the Centro Salud and asked for one. They gave me two. So I went over to the Torti Health Post and was told that they had some, but could not spare any. They even re-use them if they start to run short. Their major complaint is lack of supply from Panama City.
Next, I tried the medical staff at Peace Corps. No joy, but they said I could buy them at a farmacia. Nope, even with a picture, 5 pharmacies turned me away. 
So, I tried a hospital. Yes, they had them, but did not sell them. Stubborn bastard that I am, some would say tenacious, I went to the Administradora, who was amused by my tale of woe and that I was going to use the device to regulate chlorine instead of IV solutions. Her pity won me the sale. 
First, I had to take her note to the internal pharmacy. Then I walked way across the building to pay for the device. When I presented the receipt, I then had to go to a nurses’ station to get the $3 device.
I then wrote detailed instructions for my Water Committee, in case they ever need another. Though this one will be sun protected by a cover.
The only good part of this rigmarole is the delightful sense of satisfaction upon completion of the task.

My first breadfruit - It was OK

The breadfruit got sampled today. Here's what I got. It was still pretty firm, so cubed and boiled and mashed it. Added olive oil, salt, pepper. While it was cooking, there was a faint smell, which, with a little imagination could be baking bread. Very mild flavor. I tasted mostly the oil, salt & pepper. I'd prefer a nice camote. But breadfruit is OK. This one was "green". Next one is going full ripe, for the "pudding" effect.

Alicia, my new friend from the bus - what a smile !!

This is A-LEE-cia. She is four, going on 10. We met on the bus today on my way home from working in Pueblo Nuevo. We started smiling at each other, then advanced to sharing peanuts and giggles. For some reason the Mexican name for peanut "cacahuate" made her laugh. It makes me smile, too. And she LOVED seeing her picture "in" my camera.
She gets her smile from her grandfather, Ted, who worked with Americans in the COPEG project (elimination of screw-worm in cattle) for 20 years. The worm was considered eliminated in Panama in 2012, when Ted retired.

They are just 2 of the many reasons I love riding on the bus.
Yesterday, I had a chat with a handsome young Kuna man, whose Spanish was not much better than mine. He told me that only the Kuna women wear bright colors because "they are beautiful. Men are plain." When I asked him about Kuna families having only 2 children, he said "good for the land". I'm not sure he understood my question about HOW they limit the number. All he did was laugh and wag his finger "no".
I also noticed that the Kuna women constantly touch and stroke their infants. Seems like a really nice way to grow up.