Peace Corps Response

Peace Corps Response
My service here in Panama has been such a wonderful experience on so many levels, that I’d like to put in a plug for the Peace Corps and Peace Corps Response.
I’ll bet that many of my friends have been following my adventures over the last few months and thought, “Gee, Greg sure seems like he’s having a swell time. I wonder if I could do that.”
The answer, very simply is : YES, You Can !!
In the 67 Peace Corps countries all over the world, there are requests made by NGOs and governmental agencies for very specific needs. If you have such skills, maybe there is a Response position just waiting for you. If not, maybe a regular Peace Corps service, where language and technical training are provided, would suit you.
Right now PC Response is looking for organic gardeners, physical therapists and other medical folks, English, math and science teachers and folks with experience in forestry, construction and fisheries. Plus many other openings.
Response is quite different from a regular Peace Corps service, yet shares many good attributes. There is the same excellent administration and 100% medical care and security. The same sense of adventure and satisfaction of helping others. And the same excellent support from Peace Corps in-country staff and other Peace Corps volunteers. Of course, there are the same opportunities to explore your host country, not as a tourist, but as an insider.
What you won’t get is any language or tech training. Response volunteers must know their stuff and hit the ground running. It is a high impact, short term kind of service, where skilled professionals bring needed abilities to a specific task or project. 
The other huge difference from Peace Corps service is the time commitment. 2 years, 3 months vs. 3 to 12 months for Response. A shorter time to make friends and feel a part of the community, to be sure. But, I found many friendships and community connection in just 5 months.
You can either submit a resume of your skills and experience and wait for Peace Corps to contact you, or scan the list of Response positions available. These listings are VERY specific about what is expected. I chose my current assignment because I had exactly the skills and experience they wanted. This means I go in confident that I can get the job done. This is quite different from regular Peace Corps service, where you sign up for a country and program, but won’t know until you get to your site just what is needed. 
The application process seems a bit onerous at times, full medical and dental exams, background check, lots of questions to answer and an essay to write. This can take up anywhere from 45 days to 6 months. Don’t worry about less than perfect health – if you can climb some stairs and walk a couple of miles, you’re fine. Peace Corps will take care of any meds or medical issues you might have.
So, have a look at the open positions and see if something sounds like you. If it does, then give it a shot. If not, check out the option of regular Peace Corps service. Either way, you are in for a very satisfying and enlightening adventure. And you get to have the best job description ever – make peoples’ lives better. Every day.
As a bonus, you get to show folks in other countries how nice Americans can be and show Americans how very lucky they are.

Click on the link below, scroll down and click Search and Apply, bypass the filter and click Search to see all available assignments.

 Peace Corps Response Openings

Service Report – Global Brigades of Panama
Robert “Goyo” Plimpton
Peace Corps Response
April to September, 2016

Preface : It has been my pleasure to work with Global Brigades for the past 5 months. I have truly enjoyed working with this group of excellent people. Global Brigades has been willing to listen to ideas, make quick decisions and been totally supportive of my service and needs.

PROJECTS

Ipeti Banos – 30 Bano Units were constructed in Ipeti Choco (Embera) and 6 more are under construction. Global Brigades did all the heavy construction. Two units were abandoned very near completion. My contributions included :
Design – addition of urinal, plastic seat insert, urinal drain and rain collection gutters.
Accessories – hangers, sawdust scoop, flush bottle, temporary privacy curtains, posters and some bottle bulbs
Most of this work was completed by Global Brigades volunteers

Education and supervision of Global Brigades volunteers – I provided education on basic sanitation options and more specific information on composting toilet use and maintenance to each of the Global Brigades groups that visited Ipeti. Also helped supervise and guide their efforts. In addition, the excellent laminated posters that Global Brigades provided were attached to each unit.

Education of Bano users – Personally visited every Bano family and demonstrated to them the proper use of the composting toilet and described the needed maintenance. I did two follow-up visits to each Bano to ensure proper use and ascertain problems (sawdust in urinal , empty sawdust bin). Compliance was generally good.

Ipeti Water Committee – This has gone from a non-functioning entity to a well organized and fully functioning group in just a few short months. Achievements include:

Organizing and promoting a community meeting – achieved by printing written notices of the meeting and distributed to every home. Over 90 people attended.

Election of a new Water Committee – All positions were filled at the community meeting above. The new members have all proven to be competent , enthusiastic and hard-working.

Training of Water Committee – I trained the Water Committee in basic funtions and guidelines, accounting and administration. This was greatly aided by the provision by Global Brigades of a branded version of my PPT presentation and the gift of a complete set of record books and accessories. Written documentation was drafted and provided.

Chlorine production – 8 community members were trained in the theory, use and maintenance of an existing Chlorine Producing Unit. This unit cheaply converts salt and water into liquid chlorine solution. Written documentation was drafted and provided.

Chlorine drip unit – An existing chlorine drip unit was rehabilitated and the system operator trained in operation and calibration. Written documentation was drafted and provided.

Chlorine test lab – Test kit was purchased and the same 8 community members (including the system operator) were trained in how to test for chlorine concentrations in produced chlorine solution and in the water supply. Written documentation was drafted and provided.

Water tank cleaning and disinfection – 2 members of the Water Committee and the system operator were trained in cleaning and disinfection of the community water tank. Written documentation was drafted and provided.

(note; complete system disinfection and repair of tank cracks were not completed)

Pueblo Nuevo Water Committee –

Training of Water Committee  – I trained the Water Committee in accounting and administration. This was greatly aided by the provision by Global Brigades of a branded version of my PPT presentation and the gift of a complete set of record books and accessories. Written documentation was drafted and provided.

Water tank cleaning and disinfection – 3 members of the Water Committee and the system operator were trained in cleaning and disinfection of the community water tank. This had not been done in years and was a big part of the cloudy water experienced by the community. Written documentation was drafted and provided.

Rehabilitation of sand filters – Two existing sand filters were cleaned, disinfected and re-charged with commercial sand. System operator and one other were trained in operation and back-washing of filters. Written documentation was drafted and provided.

Design, fabrication and installation of air release valves – to solve the constant problem of air entrapment in their water line, I designed a simple air release valve. These were fabricated by Global Brigades volunteers and installed by the water team.

Toma intake design – I designed a new water intake design for the toma, but we were not able to install, due to the onset of heavy rains. Written documentation was drafted and provided.

(note: the sharing of responsibility for the water line with Amarae and the pirating of water near the source need to be resolved)

Production of training and educational materials – the following materials and manuals were created

PPT training for Water Committee

PPT training for Bano users

Accounting training for Water Committee

Chlorine production Guide

Sand filter operation guide

Flush toilet option -

As described in a separate document, I urge Global Brigades to consider switching to and/or converting existing compost toilets to flush toilets.

SUMMARY : I feel that we have accomplished a lot together in just 5 months. From my side, it has been a great partnership. Projects for the future might include : working with other water systems, investigating procedures for JAAR status and water testing.

Shopping and Farewells

some of the masks headed to the US

I had quite a morning of shopping in Ipeti. I spent just over $600 with the ladies in Ipeti, who were THRILLED !! I tried to spread it around. I bought an extra mola that wasn’t on my shopping list. It was made by a new young mother and it is her first. All the ladies begged me to buy it to help her out and “give her courage”. Someone on FB offered

Some bright colored parumas

to buy it.
All your other orders got filled and I'll be sending some emails on choices later today. 
Many thanks to those who ordered this traditional art. You made their day. Probably their week, as well!
Making things even better – As soon as the buying spree was over, all the ladies headed for Elsa’s tienda. Not to party, but to deposit their

Elsa is president of the community
bank, treasurer of the water comm,
and tattoo artist - BRILLIANT

earnings in the community bank. Global Brigades helped organize this home-grown bank about three years ago. It is a source of great pride in the village that they have their own bank – more like a savings and loan or credit union. If folks need emergency funds, they can go to Elsa’s 24/7 a get up to $50, if they are a depositor or $20, if not. No paperwork, just sign your name next to the amount and say when you will pay it back. They have never had a bad loan and all loans are interest free. They get a small amount of interest at the Banco National, where excess funds are kept. This is a really big deal, since without the community bank, it would be next to impossible for any of these folks to get a loan. And the hours are MUCH better than any commercial bank.

A plug for GEICO car insurance: When I told them, back in March, that I was going on a Peace Corps service and wouldn't be using the car until September, they lowered my premium to $14/month and sent a nice note thanking me for my service. Their online customer service always gets back to me within a few hours and seems to be on-duty 24/7. They also lowered my rate by 8% !!
Their gecko can hang with my geckos any time.

Speaking of geckos, CLICK HERE  to hear a recording of my geckos!!

I shouldn't have favorites
but Pablo was my favorite in Ipeti

Good-Bye and Farewell
Today was not an easy day for me. I went to Ipeti and Pueblo Nuevo for the last time to say Good-Bye to many of my friends. 
While I really enjoy the construction and infrastructure building, in the end it is the people I meet and work with that make this "job" so very rewarding.
My traditional Farewell gift to each of them was a color photo. For many of them, it is the only photo of themselves they may ever have. Each one is given with a note on the back, my gratitude and love.
There was some laughter and there were tears - mine and theirs. Helping them make their villages better has been a joy. Such kind and 

Feisty Lisandro - the new president of Ipeti Water
Committee, with my PC whistle that he now uses
to gather the community 

beautiful folks. Like all the people I meet in this life, I carry a part of them with me, as I leave. Here are a few of the 15 photos I gave out.

Jokester Enrique fiscal of the WC
only openly gay man I met in Panama

Abuelo Lalo - impish and wise drummer

The beautiful Mylin - so proud to be
part of her tradition

A Birthday Party and Groceries

A Peruvian roof dog
see Legend of Santo Goyo below

A Night Next Door

My neighbors invited me to a birthday party for Nana Linda last night. I attended a LOT of birthday parties in Peru, but this was my first in Panama. The two share only the similarity of name.

Apparently, Linda is not her real name, but everyone calls her that because in her youth she was very pretty, though time has certainly taken its toll. Nor was I able to determine exactly who’s Nana she is. That superficiality aside, it was a novel party, much more solemn than a US or Peruvian counterpart. I especially enjoyed the absence of professional clowns and the Hora Loca, though they have their place and function.

We began with drinking and chit-chat. I mean serious drinking. The “punch” was just about straight alcohol, which was provided by Tomas’ father. He makes “moonshine” Cana, which years ago was made from cane juice, but now is just fermented sugar water, crudely distilled. This brew was tainted with some lime juice and a little sugar to help it go down. The rest of the guests were already clearly ahead of me when I arrived. Every time my small glass was seen empty, a sweet (but insidious) young lady came ‘round to fill it. I surreptitiously dumped 4 or 5 glasses, but still could not avoid about 3 of those things.

WOOF !!!

There were also constant trips to the 3 fires, which were roasting various parts of a freshly killed member of their pig herd. This makes much more sense to me than trying to roast the whole pig. Inserted into the meat chucks were potatoes and carrots, held on by long skewers. The melting fat rolling off made for a smoky, greasy, delicious smelling scene.

What a feast it was !!  Large chunks of pork, dripping with fat and roasted potato and carrot, crisp and savory with an unknown spice(s), topped off with beautifully ripe papaya. Decorum was not in fashion, as hands were used to rather savagely tear at the meat and veggies. Napkins were in short supply, so shirt sleeves were employed. Thankfully, there appeared a non-alcoholic citrusy beverage just in time to save my stomach from total rebellion and chaos.

After the gorging had settled down, it was story time. Pretty much everyone got up and told a story or sang a song. And they were quite good. My favorite was about the great Battle of Darien that “won” the war of independence from Columbia. According to the teller, whose grandfather was there, the brave Panamanians stood up to a much larger force of Colombians. Insults were hurled, shots were fired and the Colombians ran away. He conveniently failed to mention the 5,000 US troops that were there , with artillary !! Another was about a bear, told by one of the teens. At least I think it was about a bear – the alcohol, food and his slurred enunciation combined for poor reception on my part. But, he told it with such passion and excitement and theater, that I and the whole group was enthralled.

When it came time for me to tell a story, I chose my Legend of Goyo, the great silver dog who stood on two legs and freed the roof dogs of Peru from their miserable lives. (Full text at end) Let’s say it was a tough audience. Every few lines, a woman – certainly a teacher or grammar Nazi – would interrupt and correct my awful Spanish grammar. I did my best in spite of her and other heckling when I got to the part about golden bones and butt-sniffing. And when I did the mighty “Goyo bark”, all the nearby dogs started in barking and howling much to everyone’s delight. When I finished, one (rather drunk) fellow got up and said it was a stupid story – how could dogs eat bones of gold? And why would dogs live on a roof? Stupid story. He passed out in his chair a few minutes later, much to my delight.

When Tomas announced that I have been working to help some Kuna villages, I had to suffer through some pretty negative talk about the Kuna. The only interesting topic was their form of birth control. Three theories were put forward : 1) They kill any babies after the second. 2) They have an herb which causes abortion and 3) They only have oral and anal sex after the 2^nd child. (all equally horrible acts to these “nominal” Catholics). I’m betting on #2. Or even #3.

After that party, I was almost wishing for clowns and Hora Loca.

Legend of “Santo Goyo”

A long time ago, a strange dog came to Peru. He stood tall on two legs and had hair of silver. He was known in other lands as Santo Goyo, friend and liberator of all dogs. He saw the dogs of Peru were held prisoner on the roof. He proclaimed in a single mighty bark, that they should all be free to run and roll in the grass and chase small animals. The dogs all came down from the roofs. The moment their feet touched the earth, Santa Yessica appeared in the sky and caused a great rain of bones of gold. There was much barking, butt sniffing and other dog celebrations in the streets of Peru.

After a time, Santo Goyo moved on to other countries and another dog appeared. His name was “Butch”, the devil dog, with hair black as the night and long, sharp teeth. He ordered that the dogs return to the roofs, where they remain to this day. But, the dogs all know in their hearts that one day Santo Goyo will return and set them free once again. As you walk the streets of Peru, the dogs will come to the edge of the roof and bark. If you listen carefully, you will hear them say “Viva Santo Goyo. Viva Freedom. Viva Bones”.

La leyenda de "Santo Goyo"

Hace mucho tiempo, un perro extraño llegó al Perú. Él era alto en dos piernas y tenía el pelo de plata. Él era conocido en otros países como Santo Goyo, amigo y liberador de todos los perros. Él vio a los perros del Perú fueron hechos prisioneros en el techo. Proclamó en un ladrido único y poderoso, que todos ellos deben ser libres para correr y rodar en el pasto y caza de pequeños animales. Los perros todos descendió del los tejados. En el momento en sus pies tocaron la tierra, Santa Yessica apareció en el cielo y causó una gran lluvia de huesos de oro. Había mucho ladrar, oliendo a tope y otras celebraciones de perros en las calles de Perú.

Después de un tiempo, Santo Goyo pasó a otros países y apareció otro perro. Su nombre era "Butch", el perro del diablo, con el pelo negro como la noche y los dientes largos y afilados. Ordenó que los perros regresar a los tejados, donde permanecen hasta nuestros días. Sin embargo, todos los perros saben en sus corazones que un día Santo Goyo volverá y liberarlos una vez más. Mientras caminas por las calles de Perú, los perros llegan al borde del techo y la corteza. Si usted escucha con cuidado, se les oye decir: "¡ Viva la Libertad. Viva los huesos. Viva El Goyo”

+++++

Grocery Shopping

As my days in Panama dwindle down, my mind jumps ahead, considering some of the changes that await my return. A grocery shopping trip to Torti this morning brought some of that change into focus.

To begin with, there are no shopping carts, just plastic baskets. The aisles are not wide enough to accommodate even a single cart and few people shop for more than two bags of groceries. Folks don’t shop for a week, they shop for one or two days. Shopping is constrained by lack of refrigeration and how much you can reasonably carry on the bus and the walk to your house.

The selection of most products is slim. While a US store might have 12 different brands and types of peanut butter, here there is just one. Or none. The big exception, of course, is rice. In one market, there is an entire aisle of rice – a vast selection of brands and sizes – including the ever popular 50 lb sack.

Package sizes, in general, tend to be smaller than in the US, to avoid spoilage and loss. Many condiments and sauces come in 4 oz squeeze packs. Stark contrast to the mega packaging of Costco or WalMart.

Produce an entirely different animal here. There is no pre-packed produce in nice cello-wrapped, Styrofoam trays. Everything is loose. You select your items and take them to be weighed. No slick bar-coded stickers, just the price written in magic marker. Potatoes come with lots of dirt, as does the yucca and yams. Cucumbers are never waxed and still have the little pointy things on them. They might be a little dirty, too. Fruits are always sold at or very near ripe. Some vegetables, like celery or parsley, just can’t make it in this environment. And all the produce sold is local or at least from in-country. Meaning you only eat what is in season.

Eggs are not washed or refrigerated, as is the custom in many other parts of the world. Nor are they sorted by size. One tray can contain anything from medium to X-Large. You select the ones you want and either place them in a plastic bag or ask for a carton. Cartons are the old paper kind, as they are excellent fire-starters.

Most of the tuna cans are “tuna plus”. They either have added vegetables or smoked flavor, even jalapeños. Canned meat, like Spam, are popular for their shelf life quality. There are a few refrigerated items, for those lucky folks, like me, with a fridge. Mostly dairy products, yogurt being my favorite. The butter here is quite good – produced in Panama. And beer.

Much of the packaged food is from China. Breakfast cereal, chips, tuna especially. All are packaged to look like a US product – analog Cheerios, Pringles and “Buddy Bee” tuna.

At check out, no moving conveyor belt or bar code scanner. Just a hand calculator. Prices are marked on each item in magic marker. No credit card scanner, no cash back option.

The truth is – I enjoy both types of shopping. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Either way, I know I will eat well.

More Kuna, Buses and a Movie

Here is a video which condenses my 6 months (almost) in Panama down to 4 minutes. I don't leave for another 3 weeks, but my work and vacations are done.

Click here for movie

The Coaster bus - More about buses below

More Kuna

Once again, the bus ride provided me with another lovely Kuna seat-mate. I’d like to think they sense my curiosity or admiration for them. But, I’m sure it’s more their lack of discrimination.

Most people seem to have an aversion to strangers, especially ones who look different from themselves. Whether this is innate, instinct or learned behavior, I cannot say. I see it all the time on the bus – the seat next to me is always the last to be filled. But, the Kuna seem to be different. They will plop right down next to me without hesitation. Another reason I like them. But, as is often the case, I digress.

My partner today was Jallimae (ha-yee-my) a very lovely and stocky Kuna woman, who lives in one of the villages right along the PanAm. The first thing that struck me was that she was wearing jeans, sneakers and a check-print blouse. She explained that it is not a disrespect of culture, merely that she finds them much more comfortable than the traditional dress. I did not press about what she wears around the house.

She is the school teacher in her village. Kuna children have the option of village school or going to a public (or even private) school off site. In her village, about ¼ of the kids go to the nearby elementary and many of the high school teens commute the 30 minutes to Chepo. Her Spanish was some of the best I’ve heard in Panama – very clear, slow and enunciated – just the way I like it. I still have a difficult time understanding fast, clipped or slanged speech. All her students learn to speak, read and write Spanish, do basic math (+-x/) and some history and science. They speak all Spanish in class, though all know the Kuna language. She doesn’t teach Kuna language in class, as it has a limited vocabulary. It has only 4 vowel sounds and 17 consonant sounds (12 “letters” total). Historically, it was only a spoken language, though attempts have been made at a written version, which Jallimae says is worthless. There are also trips into the jungle with elders to learn hunting, fishing and traditions.

She told me that most of the Kuna are not taking their $40/month stipend from the Bayano Dam deal, but putting it into a village fund, which is used for infrastructure upgrades and sending folks to off-site schools or college, if they want. She is married and has a 3 yr old boy and they are thinking of another. So, of course, the ZPG issue came up. She had never heard of Zero Population Growth, but agreed that is just what the Kuna traditionally practice. And, of course, I had to ask about birth control after the first two kids. She too, just smiled and said “various methods”. So, my question remains unanswered.

I should note that not all Panamanians are as enamored with the tribe as I am. My neighbor called them “animals that live in the forest”. He and his fellow loggers are particularly peeved that the Kuna will not allow commercial loggers on their comarca (reservation). He says they have teak, ebony and mahogany trees as big around as a person. He and his friends could make a fortune on them and share the wealth with the tribe, but they are not willing. I have a suspicion that they engage in log poaching anyway. I digress.

Their village has running water and electricity. But the village where she lived before marrying her husband, had only river water and a small generator – for charging cell phones !! Everyone comes running when they hear the generator. She was quite interested when I explained that they could instead use the generator to charge a car battery and then charge the phones anytime off the battery. And even more interested in the idea of a solar panel, which would not require re-supply of gas from town. So, I have an appointment to meet next week with some men from her parents’ village in the village on the PanAm, since she said getting to her home village is “very hard”. Or maybe just “too hard for an old Gringo”. Anyway, one last consulting gig before I leave.

The accepted way to hand money to the conductor

Panama Bus Courtesy

In the rural areas of Panama, outside of the Emerald City, few people own cars. So most everyone relies on the Coaster buses that run up and down the PanAmerican Hwy for transportation. In the highly unfashionable “East Side”, where I live, buses run from the dark corners of Darien province to the City, stopping anywhere there is a passenger to pick up and fare to be made.

I see a lot of courtesy on these buses.

To begin with, there is the custom of a greeting. As folks board the bus, they invariably say, to no one in particular, “Buenos Dias” or other time appropriate salutation. And the whole bus responds in unison “Buenos Dias”. It is a quaint and pleasant custom that always makes me feel “at home” on the bus.

There are other courtesies practices with varying degrees of uniformity. One is that long-distance passengers try to sit near the back, allowing easy access to the front seats for the local patrons. While it is certainly not the custom to always yield a seat to a woman, a woman with baby or small child and the elderly are always granted seating preference, though such priority does not yet extend to me. There are no school buses for the high schools, so mornings and afternoons, they crowd the buses. Since they generally ride for free, they will always yield a seat to a paying passenger. Though they have been known to need a “prompt” from time to time, mostly when they are focused on their phones. All bets are off, of course, when the bus is packed with standees.

There is always a young lad who serves as the conductor. His (I’ve never seen a woman drive or conduct) main function is to collect fares, but they do so much more. They help the driver spot potential passengers and traffic hazards, call out upcoming stops, help the elderly board and others with packages. Packages too large to fit under the seat are put in the trunk or on the roof.

If you live at a stop that is not named or called, like I do, you simply get the conductor’s attention and say where you want off. Or just yell PARADA !! about 30 seconds before the stop. Another courtesy, which I wish Peruvians would learn, is having money ready before you exit the bus, which saves time for all the other passengers. For some reason everybody hands bills to the conductor folded lengthwise, though I’m not sure of the purpose. This “pay as you exit” plan seems to work, though I did witness one awkward incident where the passenger did not have any money to pay. There were some harsh words exchanged. In the end a few passengers made up the fare.

A little courtesy and human kindness goes a long way.

Kuna Catalog and much more

This is what the well appointed Bano looks like

Another group of Global Brigades volunteers today in Ipeti - from SMU and Kings College London. They started in on 6 new Bano units. GB also did a beautiful job of laminating my Bano poster from Peru. Placed one in each unit and inspected for proper use. Only 2 of 30 failed. Someone obviously didn't train those 2 properly. Mea Culpa

All along the PanAmerican Hwy around Torti, you’ll see the tiny little “butcher shops”. They are owned and operated by families with a small herd of cattle. Every Friday night or Saturday morning, they’ll slaughter and butcher one cow. Saturday is meat shopping day, for those who don’t have refrigeration. They usually sell out by Saturday afternoon. Talk about fresh meat……..

This is my new friend Edgardo, who likes to be called “Edo”, and his father Olo, which is short for some longer name, I’m sure. They were my wonderful company on a recent bus trip. They live in one of the Kuna villages displaced by the dam, though that was long before either of them was born. They traveled 1.5 hours by boat to get to the bus stop and were headed to Edo’s cousin’s birthday party in Chepo. We drummed on the seats in rhythm to the music and shared smiles and comments about the scenery and weather – Edo is a very bright and charming 4-yr-old.

I was surprised when Olo asked me a question in pretty good English. Seems two Canadian Catholic missionaries came to live in their village a few years back. I asked him if there were now many Catholics in his village. He said – No, not one, but lots of people who speak some English. They would make Wilbur proud.
It was only when Edo said “Adios, amigo Gringo.” That I realized I hadn’t introduced myself.

This is a “Wachiman”, no doubt a variation of watchman. These guys were in Lima, too. They each have about a one block “territory” and provide many services – they will save a space for you, stop traffic while you park (and leave) , “watch” your car during the work day and even wash it for you – sort of. With not enough parking and too much traffic, these guys come in very handy to the 9-5 City folks.

This is the lower class Panamanian answer to the fast food breakfast in Panama City. For a dollar, you get coffee or tea and either 2 tortillas (which are like thin corn hockey pucks) or a 6” serving of fried dough and a small piece of fried beef – extra tough. I opted for the curbside fruit stand up the street. For $1 each, I got a bag of fresh pineapple and fresh papaya. And free napkins.

No matter where I go in the world, my friend and college classmate David “Patton” Alter will make sure I get at least one postcard from him. Usually something, shall we say, eclectic. My part of our understanding is to send him a card in return. Given the scarcity of post cards here and the even worse postal system, I have been putting this off. I found a card up in Valle de Anton at a touristy shop a few weeks ago and today actually located the main COTEL (correos & telegraph) office. A dinky little shop inside a commercial building. The office was very small and crowded, but took only 35 minutes to pay $1.10 to mail my postcard, which I was told would arrive in the US in about “3 to 4 weeks”. Across the hall was a huge area containing thousands of PO Boxes. That is how folks get their mail with no delivery service. Or you just send to “General Delivery” and pray.

 Kuna Catalog Project

This may be my craziest Peace Corps project yet. But, I’m willing to give it a try. 
I’m donating my time and effort to support the original, traditional art of the Kuna ladies in Ipeti and to give my US friends a chance to own some unique, colorful, hand-made art. 
Here’s how it will work:
1. Email me at rgplimpton2000@yahoo.com and tell me what you want. Include your address and phone #
2. Deadline is September 1st . First come, first served.
3. I’ll buy all the stuff and bring it home with me on Sept 23rd
4. I’ll pack and ship everything as soon as I can and send you an email with how much and where to send a check
5. You’ll pay only the cost and postage (if I get tagged at Customs or have to ship an extra luggage I’ll pro-rate)
6. Since all this stuff is one-of-a-kind, you will likely NOT get EXACTLY what is pictured. I will do my best to get an item as similar as possible.

So, there it is. Seems simple enough. Let the shopping begin !!

Teaching, Change and More Mango Madness

Plenty of mangoes left on the tree.
I foresee continued mango madness
 for at least 3 more weeks.

Change

I’ve finished training all 30 Bano users in Ipeti in how to use the composting toilet. One of the trainings was by far the most enjoyable for me. There is a young couple with 2 kids, who have just built a really nice new modern house – with the shower, sink and toilet unit just out the back door. They were living in a classic Kuna semi-open house on stilts and thatched roof with her father. The family has moved into the new house , but the old man refuses. He

This tiny (baby?) bat was only 1.5" long and spent
 the day resting out on the porch wall

is afraid to sleep in a bed and doesn’t like being “enclosed”. He’d rather stay in his old house and live as he is accustomed. He also refuses to use the new bano unit, preferring his sendero (path used for toilet at 2M intervals) into the jungle. They live right next to jungle, with no other houses nearby, so this works just fine. Nature can easily absorb a certain amount of animal waste. In fact, I prefer the sendero method to a pit latrine – any day.

This odd looking citrus fruit is growing in a far corner of the
Cottage yard. Using the Google photo ID function, it is
IDed as a "Japanese variegated kumquat". Another new taste.

Young Mom and Dad feel frustrated and slighted. They build a nice new house, get a spiffy new Bano unit and the grandfather won’t have any part of it. So, they ask the Gringo – Can’t you talk some sense into him?

Truth be told, I’m already on the old man’s side – no harm in using his sendero or sleeping like he wants. But, I go up in his house and sit with him and have a chat. Wonderful old guy, but his Spanish is worse

Remember those bamboo shoots that 

were 3 ft high a week ago?

They are now about 10 ft high - a foot a day. 

Not near the record of 38" in one day, 

but still impressive.

I'd still like to know about the distinctive 

green stripes.

than mine. He pulls out a pipe and we smoke some tobacco that he grows from seed he claims his grandfather got from a Spaniard. (My head was swimming for an hour after.) We talk about the weather and the heat and the river – anything but the house and Bano. After about 5 minutes of pleasantries, he stood up and said something I didn’t understand and then laughed loudly. So I laughed too and got up and left.

I told the kids to just let the old man be. Change is difficult for us older people, I said. He wants you to be happy in your nice new house, so let him be happy in his old house. Besides, he does come in to eat meals with you.

I think they bought it.

I just noticed that one of my neighbors 

down the street is raising pigeons. Nice and fat. 

I don’t think they are meant to carry messages. 

Do they taste like chicken or dove ??

Most folks do resist change, fearing that change might not be as good as the familiar status quo. For me, change is a welcome old friend. I’ve changed residences 33 times in 65 years. Indeed, I’m beginning to wonder if I’m not some sort of “change junkie”, needing a fix at irregular intervals. For me, change brings new sights and sounds and smells and people and feelings. All that came before is still a part of me. Nothing is lost. Only the imagination of what “might have been” had things stayed the same.

Hot peppers growing on the neighbor's fence.
Too bad I don't like the heat.

Teaching

I’ve always been good at learning. But teaching is another matter entirely. It has come to me slowly. Very slowly. And not easily or naturally. My latest teaching effort has been training the Bano users in how to use and maintain the composting toilets. When I started in the teaching game, I probably would have tried to have one mass meeting of all the users, show them a slick PowerPoint and call it a day. That might work, if my class was made up of US college students. But, it just wouldn’t cut the mustard in the 3^rd world.

These are plantain corms, ready to be planted. These bulbs
or corms are the only way to propagate plantains and bananas

To begin with, these folks are not professional students, like in the US. They do not like to go to “class” and sit and listen. And getting all of them in the same place at the same time ?? Well, good luck with that. And not everyone here can read. Most of the children can. But, the older folks never went to government schools in Spanish. Most can speak it, but few can read or write it.

So, I’ve made my approach more personal, graphic and engaging. I go house to house, family by family. I hand out an illustrated set of instructions, we inspect the Bano unit together, to make sure everything is right and then I demonstrate, using all the materials they will use, in real time, just how to use it. I also try to explain the reasons for each step without getting too technical. Then, I have them show me exactly how they will use the Bano, step by step – a very small bit of “muscle memory”, but important that they touch and feel all the parts. I speak slowly and clearly, since Spanish is a second language for most of these folks. And for me.

This process is  S L O W ,( especially when I chat with the folks or share a banana or mango), but seems to work well. I’ve had folks tell me that they were afraid to start using their toilets, but now feel very comfortable. The other interesting note is the issue of tissue (toilet paper). Folks who have been to visit houses with indoor flush toilets have seen a bucket or basket, in which one places the used TP. Sounds pretty gross, I know, but there was a reason – many older toilets in central and south America used a 2” drain line, with hard 90 degree corners instead of sweeps. A wad of TP, like I’ve seen some women (you know who you are) use can clog the pipe in seconds. I say “was a reason” since most of those lines have been replaced with 3” or 4” with sweeping corners, instead of hard 90s. The point is that the Ipeti folks thought that since they now had a sit-down toilet, they should collect the used TP in a bucket. They seem quite relieved when I explain that the TP is actually good for the compost system, so no need for the smelly bucket.

Chocolate, Bano Completion and Color

Freshly harvested cacao pods - autumn colors

Cacao (cocoa) beans, naturally fermenting

One of the lovely young
 ladies at the cultural session
 for the GB volunteers 

It's cacao harvest time in Ipeti. The fruit is beautiful, but the cocoa beans inside are the prize. The seeds here are fermenting and will later be dried and peeled. It takes the beans from about 5 fruit to refine into a single tablespoon of cocoa powder.Think about that next time you savor a chocolate treat.

25 Global Brigades volunteers returned to TOTALLY COMPLETE the 30 Bano units !!!! These college students really worked hard and fast to get everything done by lunch time, when the (light) rains started. They even had time to completely clean all the litter around the village. They were treated to some cultural education and dance by the ladies, young and old, of Ipeti.

Lots of future Peace Corps folks in the group.

Two bat houses completed - one for the big guys and another for my smaller friends. A couple of days to dry out (the pavey wood was wet) and air out and up they go. Now taking advance reservations.
The bottom lip is their landing pad.
In Panama 4 months now, with zero skeeter bites at the cottage.

More colorful crafts from the Kuna ladies of Ipeti.

 I will publish a "catalog" with prices for my friends in the US next month. The (non-profit) Goyo Import service.

Bamboo, Bats and Plantains

3 new bamboo shoots

The new shoots that are forming in my bamboo cluster got me to pondering this unique plant. It is not a tree, but a grass. And one of the fastest growing grasses in the world. Growth rates of up to 38” per DAY have been recorded. The new shoots are called culms and emerge from the ground at their full diameter. Culms will grow to their full height in about 4 months, though it will not become hard and mature for about 2 years. 

My gorgeous clump of bamboo 50 ft tall

Bamboos flower only rarely, not on a regular cycle and the timing and mechanism are still a mystery.This stuff is not only beautiful in nature, but makes an excellent building material. My roof in Peru was 100% bamboo – beams with split bamboo above, cover in cardboard and 3” of mud. Many Kuna homes here in Panama use full or split bamboo as walls. The bamboo is not actually “split, it is rolled through two metal rollers and crushed, splitting apart very nicely.

Volunteers help Cecilio install rain collection gutters

25 Volunteers from Global Brigades came to Ipeti to help finish the Bano (composting toilet/shower/sinks) project. They did well. 35 more are coming this week. They only stay in Panama for one week, but get a lot done. Also, a great recruiting ground for Peace Corps.

Bat shit on the porch

Bat Shit. Yes, my little furry, flying friends have taken up residence out on the porch. Every night they leave presents. Looks like they are eating more than insects - lots of small fruit seeds in the poo, too.
Not much smell, but I can't imagine harvesting tons of this stuff from bat caves for fertilizer use. 
I am also trying to parse anew the expression "bat shit crazy".

My earlier post about the bat shit deposited on my porch, elicited some interesting responses, including a chilling reminder of the toxic Histoplasma fungus that resides therein. And it triggered my construction of "alternative dwelling spaces" for my flying friends.
But, the origins of the expression "bat shit crazy" have been left unanswered (in the dark, as it were) until now. Click on link for etymology......
 http://english.stackexchange.com/questions/38354/where-did-the-phrase-batsht-crazy-come-from

Plantain inflorescence - new fruit forming

This is one of the plantain plants around the cottage. You can tell by the sharp corners on the fruit. Just starting to bear fruit. You can see the various stages of fruit set. And also why they call the fruiting stem an "inflorescence".
More banana factoids......
The banana plant is not a tree, but the largest known “flowering herb”. They can only be reproduced by planting a cutting or shoot from another banana plant, since the seeds are sterile. When ready to flower, they stop producing leaves and form a flowering, fruiting stem called an inflorescence. I think the name is apt, since the colors of its parts nearly glow. As the inflorescence bud descends, sequential “hands” are exposed and set. Normally, only about 4 or 5 hands set - more than that would be difficult to carry.. Bananas are often harvested at night to avoid the heat and humidity where they are grown. So now, maybe the lyric makes more sense..... "6 hand, 7 hand, 8 hand bunch Daylight come and I wanna go home". Day-O Day-O

A new trunk of bananas, ready to harvest

My latest banana harvest shows the problem with these small bananas that ripen hand-by-hand. How would a commercial grower harvest this? The top hands would rot before market and the smallest hand is too immature. I'll eat them all except the smallest ones, since I only ship about 40 ft.