Here is a video which condenses my 6 months (almost) in Panama down to 4 minutes. I don't leave for another 3 weeks, but my work and vacations are done.
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| The Coaster bus - More about buses below |
More Kuna
Once again, the bus ride provided me with another lovely
Kuna seat-mate. I’d like to think they sense my curiosity or admiration for
them. But, I’m sure it’s more their lack of discrimination.
Most people seem to have an aversion to strangers,
especially ones who look different from themselves. Whether this is innate,
instinct or learned behavior, I cannot say. I see it all the time on the bus –
the seat next to me is always the last to be filled. But, the Kuna seem to be
different. They will plop right down next to me without hesitation. Another
reason I like them. But, as is often the case, I digress.
My partner today was Jallimae (ha-yee-my) a very lovely and
stocky Kuna woman, who lives in one of the villages right along the PanAm. The
first thing that struck me was that she was wearing jeans, sneakers and a
check-print blouse. She explained that it is not a disrespect of culture,
merely that she finds them much more comfortable than the traditional dress. I
did not press about what she wears around the house.
She is the school teacher in her village. Kuna children have
the option of village school or going to a public (or even private) school off
site. In her village, about ¼ of the kids go to the nearby elementary and many
of the high school teens commute the 30 minutes to Chepo. Her Spanish was some
of the best I’ve heard in Panama – very clear, slow and enunciated – just the
way I like it. I still have a difficult time understanding fast, clipped or
slanged speech. All her students learn to speak, read and write Spanish, do
basic math (+-x/) and some history and science. They speak all Spanish in
class, though all know the Kuna language. She doesn’t teach Kuna language in
class, as it has a limited vocabulary. It has only 4 vowel sounds and 17
consonant sounds (12 “letters” total). Historically, it was only a spoken
language, though attempts have been made at a written version, which Jallimae
says is worthless. There are also trips into the jungle with elders to learn
hunting, fishing and traditions.
She told me that most of the Kuna are not taking their
$40/month stipend from the Bayano Dam deal, but putting it into a village fund,
which is used for infrastructure upgrades and sending folks to off-site schools
or college, if they want. She is married and has a 3 yr old boy and they are
thinking of another. So, of course, the ZPG issue came up. She had never heard
of Zero Population Growth, but agreed that is just what the Kuna traditionally
practice. And, of course, I had to ask about birth control after the first two
kids. She too, just smiled and said “various methods”. So, my question remains
unanswered.
I should note that not all Panamanians are as enamored with
the tribe as I am. My neighbor called them “animals that live in the forest”.
He and his fellow loggers are particularly peeved that the Kuna will not allow
commercial loggers on their comarca (reservation). He says they have teak,
ebony and mahogany trees as big around as a person. He and his friends could
make a fortune on them and share the wealth with the tribe, but they are not
willing. I have a suspicion that they engage in log poaching anyway. I digress.
Their village has running water and electricity. But the
village where she lived before marrying her husband, had only river water and a
small generator – for charging cell phones !! Everyone comes running when they
hear the generator. She was quite interested when I explained that they could
instead use the generator to charge a car battery and then charge the phones
anytime off the battery. And even more interested in the idea of a solar panel,
which would not require re-supply of gas from town. So, I have an appointment
to meet next week with some men from her parents’ village in the village on the
PanAm, since she said getting to her home village is “very hard”. Or maybe just
“too hard for an old Gringo”. Anyway, one last consulting gig before I leave.
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| The accepted way to hand money to the conductor |
Panama Bus Courtesy
In the rural areas of Panama, outside of the Emerald City,
few people own cars. So most everyone relies on the Coaster buses that run up
and down the PanAmerican Hwy for transportation. In the highly unfashionable “East
Side”, where I live, buses run from the dark corners of Darien province to the
City, stopping anywhere there is a passenger to pick up and fare to be made.
I see a lot of courtesy on these buses.
To begin with, there is the custom of a greeting. As folks
board the bus, they invariably say, to no one in particular, “Buenos Dias” or
other time appropriate salutation. And the whole bus responds in unison “Buenos
Dias”. It is a quaint and pleasant custom that always makes me feel “at home”
on the bus.
There are other courtesies practices with varying degrees of
uniformity. One is that long-distance passengers try to sit near the back,
allowing easy access to the front seats for the local patrons. While it is
certainly not the custom to always yield a seat to a woman, a woman with baby
or small child and the elderly are always granted seating preference, though
such priority does not yet extend to me. There are no school buses for the high
schools, so mornings and afternoons, they crowd the buses. Since they generally
ride for free, they will always yield a seat to a paying passenger. Though they
have been known to need a “prompt” from time to time, mostly when they are
focused on their phones. All bets are off, of course, when the bus is packed
with standees.
There is always a young lad who serves as the conductor. His
(I’ve never seen a woman drive or conduct) main function is to collect fares,
but they do so much more. They help the driver spot potential passengers and
traffic hazards, call out upcoming stops, help the elderly board and others
with packages. Packages too large to fit under the seat are put in the trunk or
on the roof.
If you live at a stop that is not named or called, like I
do, you simply get the conductor’s attention and say where you want off. Or
just yell PARADA !! about 30 seconds before the stop. Another courtesy, which I
wish Peruvians would learn, is having money ready before you exit the bus,
which saves time for all the other passengers. For some reason everybody hands
bills to the conductor folded lengthwise, though I’m not sure of the purpose.
This “pay as you exit” plan seems to work, though I did witness one awkward
incident where the passenger did not have any money to pay. There were some
harsh words exchanged. In the end a few passengers made up the fare.
A little courtesy and human kindness goes a long way.
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