Thursday, May 24, 2018

Chiquita Railroad

Chiquita execs live well - right on the golf course, 1 block from office


A pleasant pre-lunch stroll though the Chiquita Country Club neighborhood near my apartment. The homes on the golf course are all Chiquita execs. I've never seen a soul on the course.


An original narrow-gauge steam locomotive - banana hauler

I ran into some of my friends from the COOBANA banana co-op today at lunch. COOBANA was formed by ex-Chiquita employees and competes with them. I helped them with a rainwater collection system, which they have now duplicated on 8 more workers' barracks.
I mentioned that I had just seen one of the old narrow-gauge steam locomotives, so they gave me some history.
A derelict diesel locomotive - standard gauge 

Chiriqui Land Co, the predecessor to Chiquita, built the narrow gauge RR in 1906. It was upgraded to standard gauge in the 60's and a new bridge built across the big river. That was also the time that they switched from shipping whole stalks to individual hands packed in boxes. Both methods required lots of labor to load and unload RR cars and move the fruit to the ships.
Big Chiquita container trucks roll by my apartment all the time

The whole system changed with the advent of containerized shipping around 1990. Empty containers back directly into the packing house and are loaded and sealed. They drive to the port, where they are off-loaded directly to the ships. This has greatly improved fruit quality and lowered costs. The guys also said that Chiquita saves all the money they paid to maintain the RR tracks, but uses the roads for free.
 
The apartment building
My friend and landlord Yadira has just updated the FB page for her hotel. She did a great job. I've enjoyed living here during my Peace Corps service in Panama.


Yadira is quite a gal
She is a bundle of energy and joy and has made my time here very comfortable. Few women on the planet work as hard (or play as hard) as she does.
My room is the standard 7 x 10, but I've added shelves and that "lived in" look


Tuesday, May 22, 2018

Regional PCV Meeting

That is a good likeness of the owner.
With his dreads in a chef hat, he stands about 7 feet tall.


Every 4 months, all the Peace Corps volunteers from the Bocas area gather for 2 days for a regional meeting. It is always a joy for me to mingle with this wonderful group of (mostly young) folks. Many are close friends who trained together for 10 weeks and now get a reunion of sorts. Yesterday, we all met with our respective government agencies for an update and some training and discussions. Last night, the troops went out on the town – to one of Changuinola‘s many casino/discos. While the youth reveled in the drink and dance, the music was just too loud (especially the bass) for me and I made an early exit.
The inside of the Ebony restaurant features reggae music and all
manner of Caribbean posters, carvings and knick-knacks

The main meetings are held at a very nice “AfroCaribbean” restaurant and feature Staff from the office in Panama City who travel here to inform us on administrative changes and the like. Sad to hear that the Peace Corps budget will be cut for a second year by the Trump administration (less Peace, More War). We hear from various volunteer groups and then break into program groups (Water & Sanitation, Sustainable Agriculture and English Teaching) to discuss how each person’s service is going, try and help each other with any problems and solicit help for upcoming projects. It is a marvelous, professional and useful exchange of ideas and shows how no PCV truly serves alone – we are family.

At this meeting, we welcomed a new batch of PCVs who just finished training a month ago. They were warmly welcomed and given some advice from each veteran volunteer. Some of my favorites: ALWAYS have some toilet paper with you, laugh at yourself whenever possible, say YES whenever possible, smile a lot, talk to as many people as you can, baby powder and rubbing alcohol can be your best friends when there is no water for days and (my favorite) keep your soap in an old sock so nobody steals it at the family shower. Such are the joys of service.

Friday, May 18, 2018

Tia Sofia


Tia Sofia's enormous joy and personality are obvious - she lifts everyone she meets 



For me, part of the joy of exploring is finding those stories. My quest is aided by living in a place where I don’t have a car and really don’t need one, given the very sensible mix of retail places in every residential area. That means I either use the abundant forms of public transport or walk. Whenever I have the time (and it’s not pouring rain), I choose the later. I try to stay off the main streets and travel the network of pathways that honeycomb the town. It gives a better view of how folks live.

A recent stroll took me down one of these small paved pathways near my apartment. The homes in my neighborhood are modest by American standards. They are neat, but generally not as well-maintained as in the US – many have faded or peeling paint and torn or missing window screens. The yards are generously landscaped, but without grass lawns or neatly clipped shrubs – mostly unruly flowering plants and vines. As I wandered this sunny morning, I was suddenly stopped by the smell of delicious fried food, which I found wafting from an average looking home. When out came a short, wide jovial woman and sold a bag of her goods to a young man.

That’s when I met Sofia – or “Tia Sofia” as she likes to be called. As I passed by, I commented on the wonderful smell and on that basis, she invited me in. One of the many benefits of Peace Corps service is that we stand out as one of the few, or perhaps only, gringos in town. As such, we are curiosities and often get special attention, especially as we speak the language – unlike the tourists. So, over some very strong coffee (pre-mixed with sugar) and outstanding empanadas, Tia told me her story.

Sofia grew up in a tiny village upstream from the big Changuinola dam. When she was a small girl, her family made a trip to the “big city” of Almirante and she was hooked by the bustle and excitement. She decided that she wanted the city life and moved to Changuinola when she was 14. She worked for 10 years at Chiquita bananas in their packing operation and sending money back to her family in the jungle. At some point she started bringing her home-made empanadas ( corn tortillas with a spicy meat filling) into work with her for lunch. Some of her co-workers tasted her fare and soon she was bringing in extra empanadas and selling them to other workers. Soon, she added hojaldras (fried bread) and patacones (fried plantain discs) to her menu.

One day she realized that she was making as much from her cooking as she was getting paid to pack bananas and decided to strike out on her own, now selling her wares in front of the Chiquita packing house. Then, she started selling to local roadside stands that just sold morning coffee and foods, but had no kitchen of their own. She bought a house and got married (her husband died 5 years ago) and got some of her family to move to town. They get up at 3am and start cooking, then distribute the food all over town, mostly on bicycles, but sometimes use public transport.

A few years back, due to public demand, she expanded into the tienda business. She has a little store in the front of the house that sells more things than can be imagined in such a small place. As we spoke about everything from the Peace Corps to Donald Trump, several folks came in for supplies and a neighbor came by to check out the gringo. She absolutely loves what she does, including giving credit to those tight for cash. Her joy of life is palpable and infectious. As I left, Tia stuffed more empanadas, hot from the kitchen, in my hands and made me promise to come back. I plan to do just that.

Such are the rewards of a simple morning stroll in Changuinola, Panama.



A Morning with Simone



I went to see my friend Simone in Barriada Santos today, ostensibly to look at his inoperative solar panel system for him. But, it turned into something much different.
My handy multi-meter quickly found the problem – a dead battery and lack of a charge controller, compounded by his failure to add water to the battery. We talked about his options, and concluded that since his part of the village will soon have grid electricity, it’s probably not worth the effort and expense.

As packed my tools and started to leave, Simone stopped me and asked me to sit down. Simone is the quiet, thoughtful one in the village – very bright and sensitive. So, we sat on the front steps of his house and he cleared his throat. First, he wanted to apologize for the group at a meeting we had a couple of weeks ago, where I had proposed ways they might increase their income from cacao production. A couple of the guys had just laughed at me and he felt bad about that, especially when “you are so kind to us”. Then, he wanted to explain why they had found my ideas laughable.

Before he retired back to his native village, Simone had worked at a pretty high paying government job in Panama City. As he puts it “I have lived in both worlds.” He views the “profit at any cost” and people driven to always make more money “city world” as fundamentally different from the campo. He also figured (correctly) that the US is like the city world. He saw my ideas ( fair-trade and value added) as well intentioned, but misguided and wanted to set me straight.
First of all, the locals don’t view their cacao as a business – it’s more like a hobby. It’s a fun family activity for those who happen to have cacao trees on their fincas. The extra income it brings is welcome, but not the primary objective. The notion that having the kids participate is “child labor” is absolutely ridiculous. Moreover, adding value to the crop by processing it and marketing to the tourist trade would be a lot of work and make it “not fun anymore.”

Then, he went on to explain “bastantemente”, which is both a word (literally = enough-mind or mind of sufficient) and a concept. It boils down to “I have enough – I have enough food, enough of a house, family and friends. Why would I want more? And why would I work harder to get somethings I don’t need?”. He realizes that this is very different, even foreign, to the attitude of the City or the “advanced” world. It is why campo people are so puzzled by corruption scandals that frequent the news here. “Why do these very rich people want to steal and cheat, just to get more, when they already have more than they need?” I suppose the same could be said for the 1% in the US.

It is indeed sad that we live in a society that places money and things above true happiness and satisfaction. I’m grateful and touched that Simone took the time to remind me of that.

Tuesday, May 15, 2018

Team Photos and Local Coffee

Water Committee posing for a group photo - most even smiled

Some of the crew atop the brand new water intake

For the "no good deed goes unpunished" file: Handing out photos of some village kids created quite a stir. Now, the adults want some, too. I got a call last night to please come and take photos of folks who had worked on the water project in Santos at various points along the waterline and then print them out. So I went. Much as a pain as this
Jose and Marco by the newly painted tank
and access ladder
might seem, these folks really deserve it. Men, women and teens spent hours carrying 40 lb bags of materials up a long, steep muddy path that nearly kills me to hike with no load. They have laid and buried almost 1 Km of pipe, cleaned, cleared and painted the water tank. And they are really proud of what they have accomplished.

So, I'm going all in and printing copies for everyone on slick photo paper this time. They have REALLY earned it.






Natalia wore her best traditional Nogobe dress on the expedition - with rubber boots of course
A bumper crop on the local coffee
Hiking the entire Santos water system today was tiring, yet rewarding as ever. We passed through lots of cacao, of course, but also some coffee trees. The local crop is looking fine. Unlike the local cacao, the coffee is strictly for personal use, as there is no local market in which to sell coffee beans here.


The fruit of the coffee bean tastes like plum to me - dee-lishious
While commercial coffee plantations harvest all the beans (green, ripe or rotten), the folks here will pick only the red-ripe fruit. As a bonus, they will suck the fruit from the bean. It tastes a bit like a plum. Then, they'll dry the beans, roast and pound in a wooden pestle. And enjoy.


Sunday, May 13, 2018

A day at the Beach - Playa Estrella

In celebration of the water project completion, I took a day at the beach. My favorite is Playa Estrella (Starfish Beach) on Isla Colon, Bocas del Toro, Panama.

It's just a 40 minute bus ride , 15 min high speed boat ride, 15 min bus ride and short walk from my apartment. Well worth the travel.


click here to see my beach video

On the way to Estrella, I passed by a monkey in the trees (monkey video), shot some underwater video of a starfish (UW starfish video) and then relaxed by the sea in a hammock, taking frequent swims.



click here to see my beach video

Crystal clear Caribbean waters

monkey video

UW starfish video


Mission Accomplished

Happy people , with better water is the ultimate goal

My Peace Corps (PCPP) grant project to rehabilitate and upgrade the water systems in Barriada Santos and Junquito, Panama is now complete. A HUGE Thank You to Waterlines for funding and supporting the project. And to the good people of these two rural communities, who worked over 1200 hours, moving about 9,000 lbs. of materials, building new water intakes and laying, connecting and burying over 1.3 Km of pipe.

Here’s what we accomplished:

The new spring box at Junquito
Junquito
Added about 7 GPM (10,000 gallons per day) of fresh spring water to the village supply, nearly doubling their supply.
Connected 4 families at higher elevations to the system, who never had running water before
Trained Water Committee in accounting and community in water conservation & disinfection

Accounting training for the Santos water committee
Barriada Santos
Added about 16 GPM (23,000 gallons per day) of spring water to the village supply, providing water even in dry season and doubling the rainy season supply
Connected 7 new families to the system, who never had running water previously

A lot of hard work by the community made this happen

Improved water pressure to 16 families on the far high side of the system, who only had water pressure late at night and now have pressure all day
Added a sturdy access ladder to the water tank, allowing better access for maintenance
Rehabilitated, re-sealed and painted the water tank and cleared adjacent trees
Installed 7 new valves for better water control
Connected 3 families at high elevation
Trained Water Committee in accounting and community in water conservation and disinfection

The happy face of success
Marilin and her family have clean running water at their home
No more lugging 5 gallon buckets up and down the hill
With a combined population of about 700, the $2,700 grant gave improved water service for less than $4 per person. That is “Bang for Buck”. 

THANK YOU, Waterlines !!

Wednesday, May 9, 2018

Finishing Projects and More Cacao


Marilin is delighted to have water running at her house for the first time
No more trips to the spring, carrying water home in buckets !!
The finished spring box with lines to house, village and overflow
We finished up the last bits of construction on the new springbox in Junquito today. The 8 GPM flow will almost double the water going to the village. Plus, some new connections to 2 families that never had water service before.
As Sgt Preston would say, "King, This case is closed !!"


The illegal water line was not well hidden
We may have done TOO good a job of repairing and upgrading the Santos water system. They have such constant water and good pressure that some of the folks across the bridge in Valle Risco got wind of it and have pirated the water.
The good news is that when Simone and Juan confronted a lady about it, everybody just decided that she would now be part of the Santos system. She paid her $1 monthly fee and that was that.



This is how they bake bread, Campo Style. 
Yep, the fire goes on top of the pot.







I think the beer and liquor producers have done a brilliant job of taking the anniversary of an obscure Mexican battle victory and turning it into an international party day.
I went to Playa Estrella (Starfish Beach) , my favorite beach on Isla Colon today, only to discover my quiet little beach had become the scene of party boats, loud music and huge beer tents.
Happy Cinco de Mayo.

Have I mentioned that I LOVE the jungle?  I get to hike through it most every day going to "work" in one of the villages. It still overwhelms me with its giant trees, lush diverse green foliage, bird and insect sounds, rushing waters and the fragrance of abundant oxygen and flowers. My photos never seem to do it justice. Extraordinary beauty. 



















I take random photos of the village kids and print them out as gifts. Everyone was delighted. Problem is that now the parents all want me to take and print photos of EVERYONE. 
I may have created a monster......
(Looks like the local barber has made his rounds since the first photos were taken. Around here, you don't go to the barber, the barber comes to you. 50 cent specials !!


The pod starts out as a tiny flower (note little spider at center)
Some photos of cacao fruit from blossom to dead, while you read more about cacao.
Cacao Economics, Panama and Fair Trade (FAIL)
My work on rural water systems in Panama takes me to the jungles that surround many communities, where families often supplement their subsistence and income with the sale of cacao beans. Seeing first-hand the extraordinary amount of work that goes into the sale of their beans for very little compensation, I’ve been pondering ways they might increase their earnings.
The blossoms that are pollinated form tiny fruit
Fair Trade – Cacao that is certified as “Fair Trade” is said to enjoy a 15 to 20% premium in price. This would amount to about $25 extra per 50 kilo bag – the standard sales unit here. To get certified they would have to prove just a few simple practices: 1. No child labor 2. No pesticides or chemicals 3. No GMO plants. Here in Panama, #2 and #3 are a given – the cacao trees all come from other local native trees and nobody even thinks of treating trees because of cost and lack of disease. The trees here are scattered almost at random among the other trees of the rainforest jungle.
Mature cacao pods on the tree
But, when I raised the child labor conversation, I was met with pure laughter. Of course the children help with harvest, drying and bagging – it’s a family affair. Besides, how else would kids learn how it’s done? Working together is quality family time. And who would watch the kids if all the adults are off working? And since cacao sale is mostly just a side-line, the extra money doesn’t seem worth the effort – unlike the African families, whose entire income is based on their cacao.

Cacao pod graveyard after seeds are removed

So, Fair Trade was a non-starter, even before we got to the issues of how to find a certification agent and how the beans would get to market. While there are two certified farms in Panama, total production in all of the country is less than 500 tons – about 0.025 percent of world-wide production – hardly enough to make a viable market.
Unharvested pods make food for birds and lizards
Moreover, the whole Fair Trade scheme is questionable. Many industry people have doubts about how well the separate supply streams are segregated. And Africa, the majority producer of cacao, is basically set up by Nestle, Cargill and Hershey as a feudal share cropping system, where growers are given company trees to plant on the family land. Child labor infractions are said to be common for the same reasons that families give here. In addition, while the Big Three maintain that the trees they supply are not GMO, they have suspiciously high yields and disease resistance.
Value Added – This seems to be a more viable option. Indeed, several other local communities have already discovered that by selling slightly processed cacao, they can net about nine times the amount they would get from selling the raw beans. In Quebrada Cacao, they sell ½ pound pure cacao blocks for $2. The community of Rio Oeste has taken the idea even further by offering “cacao tours” and a wide variety of products – from raw nibs to finished chocolate bars – to the tourist market around Bocas. Both communities were led to their cottage industry by Peace Corps volunteers of the Small Business Development program.
But, this too requires a level of effort and organization that the families I spoke with are unwilling to expend. Perhaps in the future some other PCV or whiz-bang local entrepreneur will lead the charge. But for now, the folks here seem quite willing to stick with the status-quo and just putter along with their casual side income that traditional cacao farming provides.





All About Cacao

Finished cacao blocks as sold in the village of Quebrada Cacao

While my primary Peace Corps mission here in Panama is working with local community water systems, all these villages rely on cacao production for some of their income. I share some of what I've learned about cacao with you here:
CACAO PRODUCTION
The base for all your favorite chocolate treats is cacao – the fruit of the cacao tree, native to 
Ripe cacao pods in the jungle
Central America, but now mostly grown in Africa on commercial mono-culture plantations. In Panama, cacao trees grow on family farms called fincas. The trees are scattered in the jungle among all the other jungle plants. The fruit is produced year-round, with two main production times tied to the rainy seasons. The family will walk the finca and harvest the fruit (or pods) as it matures. The pods are then sliced or broken open to reveal the seeds, which are the actual source of commercial cacao.




The seeds are covered in a fruity mass that tastes a bit like pineapple. The wet seeds are placed in a bucket or other container and fermented for 4 or 5 days, producing a pungent alcohol smell and melting away all the fruit from the seeds. Then the seeds are dried. Here in rural Panama, they are sun dried for 4 to 6 days (depending on weather) and rotated daily. African plantations use heated vats

Wet beans in fermentation bucket to remove fruit flesh
 for a fast fermentation and large, gas powered driers to dry the seeds.
The dried pods are then mostly sold to a local cooperative or company purchasing agent in 50 kilogram bags. The agents travel directly to the rural villages and pay in cash. The coop pays about 50% more, but the family must bring the seeds to a nearby larger city and gets paid by check, which must then be cashed.
A drying rack for the clean beans
Some local villages have started producing value-added products with their cacao seeds. Peace Corps volunteers from the Small Business Development program have helped promote this effort. The seeds are roasted for about 20-30 minutes, which dries the seed shell (cascara), which is then broken open to reveal the cacao bean. The beans are then passed through a fine grinder to 
Hand grinding shelled beans into paste
make cacao paste.
These villages offer several products for sale, in addition to tourist tours of the cacao process. They sell roasted, shelled beans (called nibs), dried cacao paste and finished chocolate bars. The dried paste is sold in blocks, which is similar to Bakers Chocolate, but 100% pure vs 40% purity of the commercial product. The chocolate bars are generally made by grinding cinnamon and sugar with the beans to produce a rich dark chocolate bar.

Beans (mostly broken bits called "nibs")
It is estimated that for every dollar that a consumer spends on a high quality chocolate product, the grower will get only about 0.3 cents – far less for a Nestle or Hershey low cacao content bar. For each 50 kg bag, the grower will get about $80 from an agent or $115 from the
Locals lined up at the cacao coop to sell their beans
coop. To earn that $115, they must harvest and open about 400 to 500 pods, remove the seeds, ferment them, dry them and transport them (by hand). If this seems like a lot of work for very little reward - IT IS !! That same bag will produce about $900 worth of pure dark chocolate bar if sold to tourists – well worth the extra effort.l
The locals use some of the beans at home to make a thin hot chocolate drink, sweetened by sugar or fine corm meal. Some folks drink the fermented fruit, which looks and smells pretty nasty. I met one woman who uses the outer shell of the pod to make a fruit jam that tastes a bit like pineapple.
Random notes: Pound for pound, cacao beans have about 7 times the caffeine of coffee beans. It takes about 5 years for a tree to start producing fruit. Each tree will yield between 30 and 50 fruits per year – dependent on weather and how well the tree is maintained and overhead jungle is cleared. There are about 40-50 seeds per pod.
 A bit more about cacao "nibs" - raw or roasted beans you can buy at the store or online. They are generally sold as "nibs" - bits of the cacao seed or bean. Like many tree nuts, they are hard to remove from the shell intact, though you might get a few in a packet of nibs. They can be eaten as is or used in hot chocolate drink or bars.

My friend Simone taught me the trick of eating them right, out of the shell. Don't try and chew or you'll get a blast of very bitter chocolate. Chocolate conveniently melts at about 90F, so just let the nibs sit in your mouth, while sliding and smearing the melted ambrosia around your mouth. The cacoa butter will coat the surfaces and enzymes will convert starches to sugar. Hold in the mouth and resist the urge to swallow as long as possible. I guarantee a whole new dark chocolate experience.
When cooking the beans/nibs, use very low heat - no more than 110F. You can add dried fruit, sugar, honey, condensed milk, nuts - whatever your imagination dictates.
The nibs are available online (Amazon has a large assortment). I suggest buying from Central / South American sources rather than the big corporate mono-culture plantations in Africa.